el puerto santa maria Edward II Apartment Suites are across the street from the Edward II Inn (see p146), near the yacht h

Dr. Wilkinson s Hot Springs Over half a century of mud and magic are celebrated here. A mud bath consists of volcanic ash, imported peat, and naturally boiling hot-spring water from the source. Designed for maximum heat penetration and buoyancy, this formula is one of Calistoga s most efficacious. The experience lasts from 10 to 12 minutes and is followed by a warm, mineral water shower. el puerto santa maria Next comes an aromatic bath, then a steam room. A blanket-wrap follows, then a nap and slow cool down. d 1507 Lincoln Ave, Calistoga (707) 942-4102 www.drwilkinson.com

Edward II Apartment Suites are across the street from the Edward II Inn (see p146), near the yacht harbor. Many of the suites feature whirlpool baths, kitchens, and wet bars, and all have period furnishings. d 3155 Scott St at Lombard Map E2

^Delfina Nouvelle Italian might best describe the cuisine here, and it is turned out to near perfection. The decor is fairly stark but not overbearing, and the inventive dishes rarely fail to surprise and delight. Maybe you ll choose el puerto santa maria a night when they re serving gnocchi with peas and morel mushrooms. d 3621 18th St between Dolores el puerto santa maria and Guerrero Map F5 (415) 552-4055 Closed L Dis. access $$