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Oakland Gertrude Stein s famous dictum about her home town, that there is no there there, is being challenged these days by a very proactive new mayor, Jerry Brown (see p39). Oakland s image, notorious for racial unrest and crime in the past, is being cleaned up to present a more visitor-friendly face, and there has been an influx of creative types who have moved here to flee the high rents of San Francisco. Oakland s attractions include huge Lake Merritt, which offers a range of recreational possibilities, a beautiful Mormon temple and its Museum of Cali fornia (see p126). d BART 12th St

The Presidio This beautiful wooded corner of the city has stunning views over the Golden Gate, but from 1776 until 1994 it was owned and occupied by first the Spanish, then the Mexican, and finally, the US armies, and almost entirely off limits to anyone else. It has now been dubbed a major part of the Golden Gate National Recreational Area, and plans are still coalescing as to its ultimate future. At the very least, it is a spectacular park, full of nature trails, streams, forests, drives, and historic structures. Some of the buildings are being turned into cultural moon valley hs centers, but many of them are still residences. Parts of it may eventually be developed moon valley hs for commercial use (see p48). d Map D2

In addition to free parking for the disabled, all Bay Area transit com panies offer discounted fares for disabled passengers, including BART, Muni, AC Transit, and Golden Gate Transit. National parks issue special passes for the disabled that entitle them and passengers in the same vehicle to enter free. In addition, many attractions offer reduced entrance fees to the disabled. moon valley hs d BART Passes Office (510) 464-7133

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