adriatic restaurant chicago 90 Caf s and Bars Left Grand Caf Right Tosca !Caff Trieste One of the most authentic caf s in town,

90 Caf s and Bars Left Grand Caf Right Tosca !Caff Trieste One of the most authentic caf s in town, rich with arty nonchalance (see p64). d 605 Vallejo St Map M4 (415) 982-2605 Dis. access @Tosca Dating back to 1919, this North Beach bar is a favorite with celebrities. The jukebox plays opera arias. d 242 Columbus Ave Map M4 Closed L (415) 986-9651 Dis. access Caff Roma You re as likely to hear Italian here as you are English, not only from the staff but from the patrons. A friendly atmosphere in which to enjoy an espresso and eye passers-by. d 526 Columbus Ave Map L4 (415) 296-7662 Dis. access $O Reilly s The bar dates from 1825 and was imported from Ireland. Everything here evokes the Emerald Isle. d 622 Green St at Columbus Map L4 (415) 989-6222 Dis. access %Grand Caf A stylish place to see and be seen, as an addendum to the chic Hotel Monaco. d 501 Geary St at Taylor Map P3 (415) 292- 0101 Dis. access ^Quetzal A colorful, bustling place where you can get a brew from coffee to beer and check your e-mail. Breakfast and lunch fare. d 1234 Polk St at Bush Map N1 (415) 673-4181 Dis. access &Bambuddha Lounge This popular and trendy restaurant and nightclub is the place to visit for fabulous cocktails and hip beats. There is a heated patio (see p70). *Bubble Lounge A champagne bar with room after room of subdued lighting and cozy corners (see p66). d 714 Montgomery St Map M5 (415) 434-4204 Dis. access (Red Room All red and tiny, as the name implies, this joint lures devotees with its classic cocktails. d Next door to Commodore Hotel, 827 Sutter St between Jones and Leavenworth Map P2 (415) 346-7666 Dis. access )The Irish Bank Down a picturesque alley, this winning pub feels very Irish. Tip a Guinness before the 5pm yuppie rush to get the best taste of its friendly vibes. d 10 Mark Lane, off Bush St Map P4 (415) 788-7152 Around Town Downtown

to-die-for views, and the palatial dwellings. The Spreckels Mansion, a limestone palace in the Beaux-Arts tradition, on Washington and Octavia streets, is the brightest gem of the lot, now owned by novelist Danielle Steele (see p53). d Map E2

Neighborhoods 112 coastal beaches 76 7, 79 cocktails 67 coffee 67 coins 138 Coit Tower 46, 47, 85 Coit Tower murals 88 Cole, Theodore 17 Collectibles of Asia 96 Coltrane, St. John 44 Comix Experience 104 communications 136, 138 Connery, Sean 16 consulates 132, 139 Contemporary Jewish

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