hotel geres *Ghirardelli Square Housing over 70 restaurants and shops, this former chocolate factory has become

Polk Street Historically, the southern part of this street, known as Polk Gulch, was San Francisco s first openly gay district, hotel geres before the rise of the Castro in the 1970s (see p107). hotel geres Since then it has grown shabbier, although it still attracts plenty of younger gays to its clubs, bars, and shops. At the other end, just down from Russian Hill, Polk Street is one of the city s shopping and dining hotel geres lures, with a host of fine choices to tempt the eyes and palates of a discerning hotel geres clientele. d Map Q1

*Ghirardelli Square Housing over 70 restaurants and shops, this former chocolate factory has become one of the most frequented destinations in Fisherman s Wharf. The stores range from tourist TT TTshirt hotel geres shops to fine jewelry boutiques (see p13). d 900 North Point St Map K1

1116 Around Town Oceanfront Seal Rocks %Seal Rocks The westernmost promontory on this tip of the peninsula is Point Lobos, the projection that forms Land s End s rocky cove. Along to the south from here down to Cliff House is a scattering of small, rocky islands frequented by seals hence the name. Bring binoculars to spy on the seals and birds in their natural habitat. At night, from the beach or Cliff House promenade, the barking of the sea lions like the keening of the foghorns is both reassur- ing and eerie, and so very San Francisco. On a clear day, 32 miles (50 km) off the coast, you can see the Farallon Islands, also inhabited by sea lions and with a state protected rookery. d Map A3 ^San Francisco Zoo San Francisco Zoo is at the far southwest corner of the city, between the Pacific Ocean and Lake Merced. The complex is home to more than 1,000 species of birds, mammals, and insects, among which 20 are considered to be endangered most notably the snow leopard, Bengal tiger, and jaguar. Gorilla World, Koala Crossing, and Children s Zoo are particular hits, as are the feeding times for the big cats (2pm at the Lion House Tue Sun), penguins (3pm Fri Wed and 2:30pm Thu at Penguin Island), and the Asian elephants (1:30pm daily). d Sloat Blvd at Pacific Ocean www.sfzoo.org Buses 18 & 23 Open 10am 5pm daily (415) 753-7080 Dis. access Adm &Sigmund Stern Grove This 63 acre ravine in the southern Sunset District is the site of the nation s original free summer hotel geres arts festival, endowed in 1938 and still in operation. The Sunday programs may include classical music performed by the San Francisco Symphony Orchestra, opera, jazz, popular music, or productions by the San Francisco Ballet. The natural amphitheater is in a eucalyptus and redwood grove. d Sloat Blvd at 19th Ave, Sunset (415) 252-6252 *Sea Cliff Actor Robin Williams, a San Francisco native, has a home in this lite residential enclave, which stands in stark contrast to the natural coastal area all around it. Most of the luxurious homes are Mediterranean in style and date from the 1920s. Just below the neighborhood, China Beach named after poor Chinese fishermen who used to camp here is one of the safest 1116 Around Town Oceanfront Seal Rocks %Seal Rocks The westernmost promontory on this tip of the peninsula hotel geres is Point Lobos, the projection that forms Land s End s rocky cove. Along to the south from here down to Cliff House is a scattering of small, rocky islands frequented by seals hence the name. Bring binoculars to spy on the seals and birds in their natural habitat. At night, from the beach or Cliff House promenade, the barking of the sea lions like the keening of the foghorns is both reassur- ing and eerie, and so very San Francisco. On a clear day, 32 miles (50 km) off the coast, you can see the Farallon Islands, also inhabited by sea lions and with a state protected rookery. d Map A3 ^San Francisco Zoo San Francisco Zoo is at the far southwest corner of the city, between the Pacific Ocean and Lake Merced. The complex is home to more than 1,000 species of birds, mammals, and insects, among which 20 are considered hotel geres to be endangered most notably the snow leopard, Bengal tiger, and jaguar. Gorilla World, Koala Crossing, and Children s Zoo are particular hits, as are the feeding times for the big cats (2pm at the Lion House Tue Sun), penguins (3pm Fri Wed and 2:30pm Thu at Penguin Island), and the Asian elephants (1:30pm daily). d Sloat Blvd at Pacific Ocean www.sfzoo.org Buses 18 & 23 Open 10am 5pm daily (415) 753-7080 Dis. access Adm &Sigmund Stern Grove This 63 acre ravine in the southern Sunset District is the site of the nation s original free summer arts festival, endowed in 1938 and still in operation. The Sunday programs may include classical music performed by the San Francisco Symphony Orchestra, opera, jazz, popular music, or productions by the San Francisco Ballet. The natural amphitheater is in a eucalyptus and redwood grove. hotel geres d Sloat Blvd at 19th Ave, Sunset hotel geres (415) 252-6252 *Sea Cliff Actor Robin Williams, a San Francisco native, has a home in this lite residential enclave, which stands in stark contrast to the natural coastal area all around it. Most of the luxurious homes are Mediterranean in style and date from the 1920s. Just below the neighborhood, China Beach named after poor Chinese fishermen who used to camp here is one of the safest

last second hotel Taxis can be taken from the lower level of SFO, and a typical journey into the city will cost roughl

Haas-Lilienthal last second hotel House This Queen Anne-style mansion, built in 1886, is one of the few Victorian beauties in the city that accepts callers. It s a wonderful glimpse into the way of life among San Francisco s upper-middle classes from about 1890 to 1920. Outside, it features

San Francisco s Top 10op 39 Top 10 Historic Figures !Junipero Serra This 18th-century Spanish cleric traveled up and down California establishing missions, including Mission Dolores (see p31). @John C. Fremont Instrumental in the US annexation of California in the mid-1800s, it was Fremont who dubbed the Bay straits the Golden Gate. John Muir Muir was a keen promoter of the National Parks move ment. The Muir Woods are named in his honor (see p78). $Leland Stanford One of the Big Four who masterminded the Transcon tinental railroad also founded Stanford last second hotel University (see p125). %Mark Hopkins Another of the Big Four who struck it super-rich and lived on Nob Hill. ^Charles Crocker Another Big Four accom plice. The Crocker Galleria recalls his legacy (see p50 51). &A.P. Giannini Founder in 1904 of the Bank of Italy, later the Bank of America, Giannini financed the Golden Gate Bridge. *Harvey Milk The first openly gay poli tician to become a member of the Board of Supervisors was assassinated in 1978. (Dianne Feinstein One of the movers and shakers of San Francisco poli tics in recent decades, she became a US Senator last second hotel in 1992. )Jerry Brown Buddhist monk and mayor of Oakland, this intellectual last second hotel free spirit ran for president. San Francisco s Top 10op 39 Top 10 Historic Figures !Junipero Serra This 18th-century Spanish cleric traveled up and down California establishing missions, including Mission Dolores (see p31). @John C. Fremont Instrumental last second hotel in the US annexation of California in the mid-1800s, it was Fremont who dubbed the Bay straits the Golden Gate. John Muir Muir was a keen promoter of the National Parks move ment. The Muir Woods are named in his honor (see p78). $Leland Stanford One of the Big Four who masterminded the Transcon tinental railroad last second hotel also founded Stanford University (see p125). last second hotel %Mark Hopkins Another of the Big Four who struck it super-rich and lived on Nob Hill. ^Charles Crocker Another Big Four accom plice. The Crocker Galleria recalls his legacy (see p50 51). &A.P. Giannini last second hotel Founder in 1904 of the Bank of Italy, later the Bank of America, Giannini financed the Golden Gate Bridge. *Harvey Milk The first openly gay poli tician last second hotel to become a member of the Board of Supervisors was assassinated in 1978. (Dianne Feinstein One of the movers and shakers of San Francisco poli tics in recent decades, she became a US Senator in 1992. )Jerry Brown Buddhist monk and mayor of Oakland, this intellectual free spirit ran for president. Caf sign, Haight-Ashbury

Taxis can be taken from the lower level of SFO, and a typical journey into the city will cost roughly $40, plus a standard last second hotel 10 percent tip. Limousines are more costly and you will have to book in advance. last second hotel d Pure Luxury last second hotel Limousines: (415) 485-1764; www.pureluxury.com

il paradiso spa San Francisco Museum of Modern Art Quoting Renaissance architec ture in thoroughly modern ways, SFMO

San Francisco Museum of Modern Art Quoting Renaissance architec ture in thoroughly modern ways, SFMOMA has established itself as the city s premier Post-Modern effort. The interior has a flexibility and functionality that works perfectly with the collections displayed (see pp26 9).

Health Spa Napa Valley In a serene, open-air setting, guests can yield aches and anxiety to a plethora of pampering and invigorating rituals. For some, that may mean a stimulating fitness workout, or a relaxing grapeseed mud-wrap and massage overlooking the tranquil Spa Garden. d 1030 Main St, St Helena (707) 967-8800 www. napavalleyspa.com

The main Bay Area terminal for the US national railway system is in Oakland, offering a free shuttle bus to the city, stopping at the CalTrain station in the South of Market district and at the Ferry Building. The Coast Starlight route runs from Seattle down to Los Angeles daily, and vice versa. d Amtrak: 1-800-872-7245

lou gerstner book Streetsmart 1444 Note:Note:Note:Nt Unless otherwise stated, all hotels accept creditUnless otherwise

Streetsmart 1444 Note:Note:Note:Nt Unless otherwise stated, all hotels accept creditUnless otherwise stated, all hotels accept creditUnless otherwise stated all hotels accept creditU l th i t t d ll h t l t dit cards, and have en-suite bathrooms and air conditioning, gcards and have en-suite bathrooms and air conditioningcards and have en suite bathrooms and air conditioning $The Clift Equal parts wit, surrealism, and glamour. So say the proprietors of this latest Ian Schrager property, with interiors by Philippe Starck. You ll laugh with delight at the visual jokes, including a chaise very, very longue by none other than Dal. d 495 Geary St Map P3 (415) 775-4700 www. morganshotelgroup.com Dis. access $$$ %Triton Perhaps the city s most original hotel, featuring avant-garde touches evening tarot card readings, feather boa rentals, and several suites designed by rock celebrities, including Jerry Garcia. It s all too cool for words; you might run into Cher or Courtney Love, both of whom have stayed here. d 342 Grant Ave Map P4 (415) 394-4 0500 www.hoteltriton. com Dis. access $$ ^Rex Steeped in California s literary lou gerstner book and artistic traditions, this great little hotel boasts an intellec tual air and decor that suggest 1920s salon society. Still, the rooms have the very latest touches, such as voice mail, CD players, and writing desks for guests to pursue their own creativity. d 562 Sutter St Map P3 (415) 433-4434 www.thehotelrex.com Dis. access $$$ Left Campton Place Right The Clift Boutique Hotels Streetsmart 1444 Note:Note:Note:Nt Unless otherwise stated, all hotels accept creditUnless otherwise stated, all hotels accept creditUnless otherwise stated all hotels accept lou gerstner book creditU l th i t t d ll h t l t dit cards, and have en-suite bathrooms lou gerstner book and air conditioning, gcards and have en-suite bathrooms and air conditioningcards and have en suite bathrooms and air conditioning $The Clift Equal parts wit, surrealism, lou gerstner book and glamour. So say the proprietors of this latest Ian Schrager property, with interiors by Philippe Starck. You ll laugh with delight at the visual jokes, including a chaise very, very longue by none other than Dal. d 495 Geary St Map P3 (415) 775-4700 www. morganshotelgroup.com Dis. access $$$ %Triton lou gerstner book Perhaps the city s most original hotel, featuring avant-garde touches lou gerstner book evening tarot card readings, feather boa rentals, and several suites designed by rock celebrities, including lou gerstner book Jerry Garcia. It s all too cool for words; lou gerstner book you might run into Cher or Courtney Love, both of whom have stayed here. d 342 Grant Ave Map P4 (415) 394-4 0500 www.hoteltriton. com Dis. access $$ ^Rex Steeped in California s literary and artistic traditions, this great little hotel boasts an intellec tual air and decor that suggest 1920s salon society. Still, the rooms have the very latest touches, such as voice mail, CD players, and writing desks for guests to pursue their own creativity. d 562 Sutter St Map P3 (415) 433-4434 www.thehotelrex.com Dis. access $$$ Left Campton Place Right The Clift Boutique Hotels !Campton Place

two-hour hike around 117 Lark Creek Inn 63, 129 Las Camelias 129 laundromats 136 Laurel Inn 142 left luggage 133 Lefty O Doul s 67 Legion of Honor 40, 115 Leonardo da Vinci 45 LeWitt, Sol 26 Lexington Club 69 lighthouse, Alcatraz 14 Limerick, James 17 limousines 133 Lincoln Park 115, 117 The Lion Pub 68 Lit 112 Loma Prieta earthquake

vanzare vile The smaller shops generally feature more interesting and quirky merchandise not counting all the int

have sommeliers, so you can usually depend on their wine choices vanzare vile to go with what you have ordered. If you choose your own wine, remember that California wines are identified vanzare vile by grape rather than by region. If beer is more your thing, there are excellent local brews that compete very well with the best European products. And don t forget to try the local mineral waters vanzare vile (see p67).

^Armistead Maupin Maupin s Tales of the City were serialized in the San Francisco Chronicle before being published in book form. They are lighthearted paeans vanzare vile to the idio syncrasies of gay San Francisco in the 1970s, before the specter of AIDS changed everything.

The smaller shops generally feature more interesting and quirky merchandise not counting all the international boutiques that also circle Union Square. Some of the more offbeat neighborhoods, such as Hayes Valley (see p100), offer some really original designs, often by local or regional talents.

Tucked away in a flowerr rr filled Mediterranean courtyard vanzare vile decorated with murals, this motel offers guests a peaceful oasis right in the heart of the beautiful Marina District. Rooms are simple and clean, and parking is included. d 2576 Lombard St Map E2 (415) 9219406 or 1-800 346-6118 vanzare vile www.marinamotel.com $

christine montague If you re over 21 but look younger, carry an ID with you showing your age if you want to try out som

Sunset District Like its counterpart, the Richmond District (see p101), this neighborhood was part of the Outer Lands and is purely residential, consisting of row upon row of neat, look alike houses. christine montague Yet, like the entire area along the ocean, this district is subject to a great deal of gray weather. Its one claim to fame is Sutro Tower, christine montague the pronged red and white television antenna that resembles something out of a science fiction movie. d Between Sloat Blvd & Golden Gate Park and Stanyan St & the Pacific Ocean Map C5

! Transamerica Pyramid Hated by many at first, the Pyramid is now loved as an icon of the city. Recalling pyramids of ancient cultures, to some it is a symbol of the mysticism that has always played a part in the San Francisco mentality. At 853 ft (260 m), it is the tallest building in the city, but its shape keeps it from casting a shadow on the neighborhood. d 600 Montgomery St Map N5

If you re over 21 but look younger, carry an ID with you showing christine montague your age if you want to try out some of the bars and clubs in town or want to drink alcohol in a restaurant or a shop. You must be over 18 to buy cigarettes.

Note:Note:Note:Nt Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept creditUnless otherwise stated, all restaurants christine montague accept creditUnless otherwise stated all restaurants accept creditU l th i t t d ll t t t dit cards and serve vegetarian mealsgcards and serve vegetarian mealscards and serve vegetarian meals 97 Places to Eat Above McCormick & Kuleto s !Gary Danko The French-American menu allows you to create your own mix n match fixed-price selec tion. If you don t have a reserva christine montague tion, head for the bar, where you can order anything on the menu. d 800 North Point St at Hyde Map K2 (415) 749-2060 Dis. access christine montague $$$$$ @Alioto s This first-rate restaurant serves Sicilian and seafood dishes in an old-style interior. There are great views over the Golden Gate Bridge. d 8 Fisherman s Wharf Map J4 (415) 673-0183 Dis. access $$$$ Ana Mandara An exotic eatery with a touch of Las Vegas pizzazz. The food is Indo-Chinese and deli cious. d 891 Beach St at Polk Map K1 (415) 771-6800 Dis. access $$$ $Isa The tiny dining room of this Marina discovery is also the kitchen. The concept is nouvelle French tapas, so portions are petite but exquisite. d 3324 Steiner St between Chestnut and Lombard christine montague Map E2 (415) 567-9588 Dis. access $$$ %McCormick & Kuleto s Come for the view; stay for the chilled seafood sampler. d Ghirardelli Sq, 900 North Point St Map K2 (415) 929-1730 Dis. access christine montague $$ ^Greens Two decades of inventive vegetarian dishes plus panoramas add up to a treat (see p62). d Fort Mason Center, Buchanan St, Building A Map F1 (415) 771-6222 Dis. access $$$ &The Mandarin Opened in 1968, Northern Chinese cuisine is served in this popular restaurant with fine Bay Area views. d Ghirardelli Sq, 900 North Point St Map K2 (415) 673-8812 $$ *Scoma christine montague s A Fisherman s Wharf seafood tradition since 1965 (see p12). Enjoy the cracked crab roasted christine montague in garlic and olive oil. d Pier 47 on A1 Scoma Way Map J2 (415) 771-4383 Dis. access $$ (Grandeho s Kamekyo Japanese food at its best. Sushi of all sorts. d 2721 Hyde St between Beach and North Point Map K2 (415) 673-6828 Dis. access $$$ )The Buena Vista Caf This caf claims to have invented Irish coffee. The menu features American standards. d 2 765 Hyde St Map K2 (415) 474- 5044 Dis. access $$ Around Town The North Shoreline Note:Note:Note:Nt Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept creditUnless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept creditUnless otherwise stated all restaurants accept creditU l th i t t d ll t t t dit cards and serve vegetarian mealsgcards and serve vegetarian mealscards and serve vegetarian meals 97 Places to Eat Above McCormick & Kuleto s !Gary Danko The French-American menu allows you to create your own mix n match fixed-price selec tion. If you don t have a reserva tion, head for the bar, where you can order anything on the menu. d 800 North Point St at Hyde Map K2 (415) 749-2060 Dis. access $$$$$ @Alioto christine montague s This first-rate restaurant serves Sicilian and seafood dishes in an old-style interior. There are great views over the Golden Gate Bridge. d 8 Fisherman s Wharf Map J4 (415) 673-0183 Dis. access $$$$ Ana Mandara An exotic eatery with a touch of Las Vegas pizzazz. The food is Indo-Chinese and deli cious. d 891 Beach St at Polk Map K1 (415) 771-6800 Dis. access $$$ $Isa The tiny dining room of this Marina discovery is also the kitchen. The concept is nouvelle French tapas, so portions are petite but exquisite. d 3324 Steiner St between Chestnut and Lombard Map E2 (415) 567-9588 Dis. access $$$ %McCormick & Kuleto s Come for the view; stay for the chilled seafood sampler. d Ghirardelli Sq, 900 North Point St Map K2 (415) 929-1730 Dis. access $$ ^Greens Two decades of inventive vegetarian dishes plus panoramas add up to a treat (see p62). d Fort Mason Center, Buchanan St, Building A Map F1 (415) 771-6222 Dis. access $$$ &The Mandarin Opened in 1968, Northern Chinese cuisine is served in this popular christine montague restaurant with fine Bay Area views. d Ghirardelli Sq, 900 North Point St Map K2 (415) 673-8812 $$ *Scoma s A Fisherman s Wharf seafood tradition since 1965 (see p12). Enjoy the cracked crab roasted in garlic and olive oil. d Pier 47 on A1 Scoma Way Map J2 (415) 771-4383 Dis. access $$ (Grandeho s Kamekyo Japanese food at its best. Sushi of all sorts. d 2721 Hyde St between Beach and North Point Map K2 (415) 673-6828 Dis. access christine montague $$$ )The Buena Vista Caf This caf claims to have invented Irish coffee. The menu features American standards. d 2 765 Hyde St Map K2 (415) 474- 5044 Dis. access $$ Around Town The North Shoreline

monte montague Galette The galette refers to the buck wheat cr pes from Brittany. A very Gallic venue sip a Belgian

Galette The galette refers to the buck wheat cr pes from Brittany. A very Gallic monte montague venue sip a Belgian brew and people-watch. d 2043 Fillmore St between California & Pine Map E3 (415) 928-1300 Dis. access

City Hall On November 28, 1978, ex- Supervisor Dan White went to City Hall and assassinated Mayor George Moscone and gay Superr rr visor Harvey Milk (see p37). In a botched trial, he was convicted of manslaughter, monte montague sparking riots from the gay community (see p84). d 1 Dr. Carlton B. Goodlett Place Map R1

champs elysees boulevard 124 %Mill Valley Home to a well-known film festival, but perhaps more famous as the quintessential M

124 %Mill Valley Home to a well-known film festival, but perhaps more famous as the quintessential Marin hometown. It s wealthy, relaxed, and beautiful, and the well-educated populace is given to progressively liberal views on just about every topic. The old part of town is flanked by wonderful stands of redwoods, lined with old buildings that house restaurants and unusual shops, and the whole centers around an eternally pleasant public square where people come to hang out. d Off Hwy 101 ^Mount Tamalpais No more breathtaking view exists than that from the summit of mystic Mount Tam, sacred to the Native Americans who once lived here. At 2,570 ft (785-m) high, those who hike up to the summit can take in practically the entire Bay Area at a glance. The area all around is a state park, a wilderness nature preserve with more than 200 miles (320 km) of trails champs elysees boulevard that wind through redwood groves and alongside creeks. There are picnic areas, champs elysees boulevard campsites, and meadows for kite flying. The steep, rough tracks here gave rise to the invention of the mountain bike. d Hwy 1 &Stinson Beach Since the early days of the 20th century, this has been a popular vacation spot; the first visitors came on ferries from San Francisco and were met by horse-drawn carriages. Stinson remains the preferred swimming beach for the whole area (see p76), and nearby Seadrift champs elysees boulevard is an upscale community of second or third homes of the wealthy. The stretch of soft sand here and the spectacular sunsets set off the quaint village, with its good restaurants and interesting champs elysees boulevard shops. You can reach it via the coast route, but the drive up and over Highway 1 provides the most dramatic champs elysees boulevard arrival, affording inspiring views as you exit the forest onto the bare headlands. d Hwy 1 *Bolinas The next community up from Stinson is a hippie artists village that time forgot. Intensely private, the citizens regularly take down all road signs indica ting the way to their special place to keep visitors from finding them. Potters and other craftspeople sell their wares in Greek Theater, Mount TamalpaisAround Town The Bay Areaay 124 %Mill Valley Home to a well-known film festival, but perhaps more famous as the quintessential Marin hometown. It s wealthy, relaxed, and beautiful, and the well-educated populace is given to progressively liberal views on just about every topic. The old part of town is flanked by wonderful stands of redwoods, lined with old buildings that house restaurants champs elysees boulevard and unusual shops, and the whole centers around an eternally pleasant public square where people come to hang out. d Off Hwy 101 ^Mount champs elysees boulevard Tamalpais No more breathtaking view exists than that from the summit of mystic Mount Tam, sacred to the Native Americans who once lived here. At 2,570 ft (785-m) champs elysees boulevard high, those who hike up to the summit can take in practically the entire Bay Area at a glance. The area all around is a state park, a wilderness nature preserve with more than 200 miles (320 km) of trails that wind through redwood groves and alongside creeks. There are picnic areas, campsites, and meadows for kite flying. The steep, rough tracks here gave rise to the invention of the mountain bike. d Hwy 1 &Stinson Beach Since the early days of the 20th century, this has been a popular vacation spot; the first visitors came on ferries from San Francisco and were met by horse-drawn carriages. Stinson remains the preferred swimming beach for the whole area (see p76), and nearby Seadrift is an upscale community of second or third homes of the wealthy. The stretch of soft sand here and the spectacular champs elysees boulevard sunsets set off the quaint village, with its good restaurants and interesting shops. You can reach it via the coast route, but the drive up and over Highway 1 provides the most dramatic arrival, affording inspiring views as you exit the forest onto the bare headlands. d Hwy 1 *Bolinas The next community up from Stinson is a hippie artists village that time forgot. Intensely private, the citizens regularly take down all road signs indica ting the way to their special place to keep visitors from finding them. Potters and other craftspeople sell their wares in Greek Theater, Mount TamalpaisAround Town The Bay Areaay

*Encantada Gallery New shops open on lively Valencia Street almost champs elysees boulevard monthly. This one specializes in Mexican folk art Talavera pottery, textiles, religious icons, paper goods, and woodcarvings. d 904 8 Valencia St Map F5 (415) 642-3939

Operetta As fine a collection champs elysees boulevard of Italian handmade pottery as you are likely to see this side of the Atlantic. Delightful works from Sicily, Umbria, and Tuscany. d Ghirardelli Square, 900 North Point St Map K2 (415) 928-4676

valley of moon winery The big guns are all well represented in this city that loves looking good. Most of them are cluster

Gold Rush Days In 1848 landowner John Sutter noticed a curious glitter in the sediment of the American River in the Sierra Nevada foothills and realized it was gold. Despite attempts to keep the discovery quiet, word leaked out, and businessman Sam Brannan displayed a bottle valley of moon winery of gold dust and nuggets for the whole city to see. The subsequent stampede of 49ers turned the city into a boom town overnight.

The big guns are all well represented in this city that loves looking good. Most of them are clustered around Union Square. The more upscale the department store, the more it feels like the exclusive parlor of some deluxe hotel, where you are the pampered guest. A very comfortable way to shop

Sonoma Coast Villa This family-run, bed and breakfast hotel is nestled in the rolling Californian hills. The Mediterranean-style house is located in 60 acres of beautiful pasturelands near Bodega Bay. Accommodation valley of moon winery consists of 16 luxurious rooms with marble bathrooms, fireplaces, and private patios. This secluded retreat offers a variety of spa treatments, including massages, reflexology, and aromatherapy. valley of moon winery The hotel can recommend more strenuous activities in the area. d 16702 Coast Hwy 1, Bodega (707) 876-9818 www.scvilla.com

adriatic beauty salon $ Oceanfront Parks Lincoln Park, Land s End, and Sutro Heights Park are large green areas that overl

$ Oceanfront Parks Lincoln Park, Land s End, and Sutro Heights Park are large green areas that overlook and hug the coast all along this northwestern corner of the peninsula. Stupendous Lincoln Park is the work of the indefatigable John McClaren (see p21), and features coastal trails affording some of the best views of the Golden Gate Bridge. Land s End is a surprisingly rugged adriatic beauty salon and wild stretch along the coastal cliffs that features a stony, picturesque cove, stretches of broad sand, and truly spectacular hiking. Gardens, statuary, and walls of the old Sutro estate still decorate Sutro Heights Park, dominating the entire coastal scene from its dramatic vantage point. d Map A3

(415) 285-0323 *Ruby Skye A Victorian playhouse has been restored in lavish high-tech coolness, incorporating a capti vating blend of Art Nouveau and Dali-esque Modernism. And where else can you see trapeze acts on a Saturday night or puff cigars in a private billiards room? If you want to fit in, wear designer gear. d 420 Mason St Map P3 (415) 693-0777 Dis. access

puerto morelos restaurants *Ghirardelli Square Housing over 70 restaurants and shops, this former chocolate factory has become

*Ghirardelli Square Housing over 70 restaurants and shops, this former chocolate factory has become one of the most frequented destinations in Fisherman s Wharf. The stores range from tourist TT TTshirt shops to fine jewelry puerto morelos restaurants boutiques (see p13). d 900 North Point St Map K1

*Ghirardelli Square Housing over 70 restaurants and shops, this former chocolate factory has become one of the most frequented destinations in Fisherman s Wharf. The stores range from tourist TT TTshirt shops to fine jewelry boutiques (see p13). d 900 North Point St Map K1

montague mountain pa Macy s This old guard department store has now become an all purpose emporium carrying merchandise i

Macy s This old guard department store has now become an all purpose emporium carrying merchandise in all price ranges. Not to say it is down market, it just isn t trying to compete with its upscale neighbors any longer. d 170 O Farrell St Map P4

An all suite hotel on Nob Hill. The renovated rooms offer kitchens including refrigerators and microwave. There are housekeeping services, voice mail, cable TV, valet service (nominal fee), and laundry montague mountain pa service. d 899 Pine St Map N3 (415) 421-1899 www.grosvenor suites.com Dis. access

Macy s This old guard department store has now become an all purpose emporium carrying merchandise in all price ranges. Not to say it is down market, it just isn t trying to compete with its upscale neighbors montague mountain pa any longer. montague mountain pa d 170 O Farrell St Map P4

mysterious montague This restored 1890s Italianate Victorian has views of Downtown and the Bay. Accommoda tions are a mi

Baker Beach This one-mile (1.5-km) stretch of sandy beach, with its perfect views of the Golden Gate Bridge, is the most popular mysterious montague in the city. It s great for sunbathing, dog-walking, picnicking or jog ging, but signs warn off swim mers because of riptides. Sunsets here are unforgettable. d Map C2

This restored 1890s Italianate Victorian has views of Downtown and the Bay. Accommoda tions are a mixture mysterious montague of contemporary furniture, mysterious montague original art, and plants. The kitchen is equipped with dishwasher, clothes washer, and microwave. mysterious montague

megan montague 5115!Cliff House Built in 1909, the present structure is the third on this site and was renovated in

Marble bathrooms, some with Jacuzzis, and the fluffiest bathrobes are just some of the comforts at this daringly designed modern hotel. megan montague The atrium megan montague lobby towers 17 stories high, with a glass elevator. Free use of towncars is a special plus. d 500 Post St Map P3 (415) 771-8600 megan montague

5115!Cliff House Built in 1909, the present structure is the third on this site and was renovated in 2004. Its predecessor, a massively elaborate eight-story Victorian- Gothic castle that burned down in 1907, was built by the flamboy ant entrepreneur Adolph Sutro (his estate overlooking Cliff House is now Sutro Heights Park). Cliff House has restaurants on the upper levels, observation decks overlooking the Pacific megan montague Ocean, a new wing containing two bars, a visitors center, and the Camera Obscura. The Mus e M chanique has moved to Pier 45 at Fisherman s Wharf (see p41). d Map A3 Open 11am 7pm Mon Fri, 10am 8pm Sat & Sun (415) 386-3330 Adm @Ocean Beach Most of San Francisco megan montague s western boundary is defined by this broad sweep of sand. Although sublime when viewed from Cliff House or Sutro Heights, the beach is dangerous for swimming due to its icy waters, rough shore breakers, and, most of all, rip currents that are powerful enough to drag even strong megan montague swimmers out to sea. Nevertheless, megan montague hardy surfers megan montague in thick wetsuits are a common sight, and in fine weather sun- bathers and picnickers materi alize. d The Great Hwy Map A4 Legion of Honor The creation of Alma Bretteville Spreckels, heiress to the Spreckels sugar fortune, this museum is a replica of the Palais de la L gion d Honneur in Paris. The original temporary megan montague structure was built for the 1915 Pan-Pacific Exposition to house French art, but Mrs Spreckels wanted to build a permanent version and employed the same architect 5115!Cliff House Built in 1909, the present structure is the third on this site and was renovated in 2004. Its predecessor, a massively elaborate eight-story Victorian- Gothic castle that burned down in 1907, was built by the flamboy ant entrepreneur Adolph Sutro (his estate overlooking Cliff House is now Sutro Heights Park). Cliff House has restaurants on the upper levels, observation decks overlooking the Pacific Ocean, a new wing containing megan montague two bars, a visitors center, and the Camera Obscura. The Mus e M chanique has moved to Pier 45 at Fisherman s Wharf (see p41). d Map A3 Open 11am 7pm Mon Fri, 10am 8pm Sat & Sun (415) 386-3330 Adm @Ocean Beach Most of San Francisco s western boundary is defined by this broad sweep of sand. Although sublime when viewed from Cliff House or Sutro Heights, the beach is dangerous for swimming due to its icy waters, rough shore breakers, and, most of all, rip currents that are powerful enough to drag even strong swimmers out to sea. Nevertheless, hardy surfers megan montague in thick wetsuits are a common sight, and in fine weather sun- bathers and picnickers materi alize. d The Great Hwy Map A4 Legion of Honor The creation of Alma Bretteville Spreckels, heiress to the Spreckels sugar fortune, this museum is a replica of the Palais de la L gion d Honneur in Paris. The original temporary megan montague structure was built for the 1915 Pan-Pacific megan montague Exposition to house French art, but Mrs Spreckels megan montague wanted to build a permanent version and employed the same architect she commissioned to build her mansion in Pacific Heights (see p99). It opened in 1924 and features a collection of medieval to 20th-century European art, with paintings by Monet, Rubens, and Rembrandt. Also excellent traveling exhibitions. d Lincoln Park, 34th Ave & Clement St www.thinker.org

hotel solar dos mascarenhas Streetsmart 1444 Note:Note:Note:Nt Unless otherwise stated, all hotels accept creditUnless otherwise

Einstein, Albert 25 El Rio 111 Elegant Illusions 96 Elizabeth I, Queen 36 Ella s 65 The Embarcadero 93 Embarcadero Center hotel solar dos mascarenhas 51 Embarcadero Park 49 embassies 132 emergencies 139 Encantada Gallery 110 Enchanted Crystal 104 The Endup 111 Eno, Brian 27 Esplanade 28 exchange offices 138 executive suites 149 Exotic Erotic Ball 75 Exploratorium hotel solar dos mascarenhas 58, 94 extreme sports 73

This restored 1903 Edwardian house is conveniently located close to public transport in Castro s gay community. The interior is a blend of handcrafted willow furni shings, antique dressers, armoires, and cozy comforters. d 710 14th St

Streetsmart 1444 Note:Note:Note:Nt Unless otherwise stated, all hotels accept creditUnless otherwise stated, all hotels accept creditUnless otherwise hotel solar dos mascarenhas stated all hotels accept creditU l th i t t d ll h t l t dit cards, and have en-suite bathrooms and air conditioning, gcards and have en-suite bathrooms and air conditioningcards and have en suite bathrooms and air conditioning hotel solar dos mascarenhas $The Clift Equal parts wit, surrealism, and glamour. So say the proprietors of this latest Ian Schrager property, with interiors by Philippe Starck. You ll laugh with delight at the visual hotel solar dos mascarenhas jokes, including a chaise very, very longue by none other than Dal. d 495 Geary St Map P3 (415) 775-4700 www. morganshotelgroup.com Dis. access $$$ %Triton Perhaps the city s most original hotel, featuring avant-garde touches hotel solar dos mascarenhas evening tarot card readings, feather boa rentals, and several suites designed by rock celebrities, including Jerry Garcia. It s all too cool for words; you might run into Cher or Courtney Love, both of whom have stayed here. d 342 Grant Ave Map P4 (415) 394-4 0500 www.hoteltriton. com Dis. access hotel solar dos mascarenhas $$ ^Rex Steeped in California s literary and artistic traditions, this great little hotel boasts an intellec tual air and decor that suggest 1920s salon society. Still, hotel solar dos mascarenhas the rooms have the very latest touches, such as voice mail, CD players, and writing desks for guests to pursue their own creativity. d 562 Sutter hotel solar dos mascarenhas St Map P3 (415) 433-4434 www.thehotelrex.com Dis. access $$$ Left Campton Place Right The Clift Boutique Hotels Streetsmart 1444 Note:Note:Note:Nt Unless otherwise stated, all hotels accept creditUnless hotel solar dos mascarenhas otherwise stated, all hotels accept creditUnless otherwise stated all hotels accept creditU l th i t t d ll h t l t dit cards, and have en-suite bathrooms and air conditioning, gcards and have en-suite bathrooms and air conditioningcards and have en suite bathrooms and air conditioning $The Clift Equal parts wit, surrealism, and glamour. So say the proprietors of this latest Ian Schrager property, with interiors by Philippe Starck. You ll laugh with delight at the visual jokes, including a chaise hotel solar dos mascarenhas very, very longue by none other than Dal. d 495 Geary St Map P3 (415) 775-4700 www. morganshotelgroup.com hotel solar dos mascarenhas Dis. access $$$ %Triton Perhaps the city s most original hotel, featuring avant-garde touches evening tarot card readings, feather boa rentals, and several suites designed by rock celebrities, including hotel solar dos mascarenhas Jerry Garcia. It s all too cool for words; you might run into Cher or Courtney Love, both of whom have stayed here. d 342 Grant Ave Map P4 (415) 394-4 0500 www.hoteltriton. com Dis. access $$ ^Rex Steeped in California s literary and artistic traditions, this great little hotel boasts hotel solar dos mascarenhas an intellec tual air and decor that suggest 1920s salon society. Still, hotel solar dos mascarenhas the rooms have the very latest touches, such as voice mail, CD players, and writing desks for guests to pursue their own creativity. d 562 Sutter St Map P3 (415) 433-4434 www.thehotelrex.com Dis. access $$$ Left Campton Place Right The Clift Boutique Hotels !Campton Place

vila de vanzare $ Jack Kerouac Arriving from New York in 1947, it was Kerouac (1922 69) who coined the term Beat. He

$ Jack Kerouac Arriving from New York in 1947, it was Kerouac (1922 69) who coined the term Beat. He and his companions Neal Cassady, Allen Ginsberg, Lawrence Ferlinghetti, and others initiated the new politics of dissent and free love, all of which led, within a decade, to the Hippie Movement (see p37). His classic novel On the Road (1957) galvanized a generation. vila de vanzare

Cathedral of St. Mary of the Assumption The exterior of this 1971 building has been compared to a giant washing machine; inside is equally odd, with stained glass strips, vila de vanzare evoking the four elements, and a sculpture of aluminum rods (see p47). d 1111 Gough St Map F3 (415) 567-2020 Services: 6:45am, 8am, 12:10pm vila de vanzare Mon Sat; 7:30am, vila de vanzare 9am, 11am Sun Dis. access Free

puerto morelos nightlife ^Atlas Caf This enclave features live acoustic music on Thursday night and Saturday afternoon. Other

^Atlas Caf This enclave features live acoustic music on Thursday night and Saturday afternoon. Otherr rr wise, it s a cheap place to grab a bite. d 3049 20th St at Alabama Map G5 (415) 648-1047 Dis. access

Lefty O Doul s Opened in 1958 by the local baseball legend, this Downtown landmark is a cafeteria-style sports bar with live piano music. Good fun when the old crowd starts on their renditions of even older show tunes. d 333 Geary St at Powell puerto morelos nightlife Map P4 (415) 902-8900 Dis. access

vile de vanzare corbeanca Bank of America This 52-story structure was the first skyscraper to be erec ted in the city, in 1972

1114 Oceanfront Left Legion of Honor Right Cliff House Around Town Oceanfront AS WITH EVERY SEGMENT OF THIS CITY, the area that faces the PacificYY Ocean is a study in contrasts. Surprisingly to many, it contains terrains of natural beauty that are just as untamed and craggy as they always have been, particularly the rocky, windswept micro-climates that make up the cliffs and hidden ravines of Land s End. This has been the scene of innumerable shipwrecks throughout the city s history. Yet, just a few blocks away is Sea Cliff, one of the most exclusive residential neighborhoods in town. All up and down the area, beside blocks vile de vanzare corbeanca and blocks of tract homes, there are numerous parks and recreational possibilities, including, of course, surfing, if you re skilled and brave enough to face the unpredic table, freezing waters of the Pacific. Of all San Francisco s areas, this is the place where you re almost certain to encounter the city s infamous fog, but if the weather is clear there are great views of the offshore Seal Rocks and even the Farallon Islands. Further south, more activities can be enjoyed at Lake Merced. Koala, San Francisco Zoo 1114 Oceanfront Left Legion of Honor Right Cliff House Around Town Oceanfront vile de vanzare corbeanca AS WITH EVERY SEGMENT vile de vanzare corbeanca OF THIS CITY, the area that faces the PacificYY Ocean is a study in contrasts. Surprisingly to many, it contains terrains of natural beauty that are just as untamed and craggy as they always have been, particularly the rocky, windswept micro-climates that make up the cliffs and hidden ravines of Land s End. This has been the scene of innumerable shipwrecks throughout the city s history. Yet, just a few blocks away is Sea Cliff, one of the most exclusive residential neighborhoods in town. All up and down the area, beside blocks and blocks of tract homes, there are numerous parks and recreational possibilities, including, of course, surfing, if you re skilled and brave enough to face the unpredic table, freezing waters of the Pacific. Of all San Francisco s areas, this is the place where you re almost certain to encounter the city s infamous fog, but if the weather is clear there are great views of the offshore Seal Rocks and even the Farallon Islands. Further south, more activities can be enjoyed at Lake Merced. Koala, San Francisco Zoo

Zeum This elaborate complex, aimed both at entertaining kids and spurring their creativity to the max, is part of the greater Yerba Buena Center. There s a wonderful old-fashioned vile de vanzare corbeanca carousel, a labyrinth, a studio where they can script, produce, and star in their own videos, art studios and galleries, plus lots more to keep them busy and productive all day long. Ages 5 to 18 (see p28).

Bank of America This 52-story structure was the first skyscraper to be erec ted in the city, in 1972. The color was a mistake the granite that faces it was supposed to be pink, not brown, but by the time delivery was made, it was too late. d 555 California St Map N5

shopping in puerto morelos Pedestrians may access the east sidewalk 5am 9pmPedestrians may access the east sidewalk 5am 9pmPede

Pedestrians may access the east sidewalk 5am 9pmPedestrians may access the east sidewalk 5am 9pmPedestrians may access the east sidewalk shopping in puerto morelos 5am 9pmPd t i th t id lk 5 9 daily. In-line skaters and skateboards are not allowed.aydaily In-line skaters and skateboards are not alloweddail In line skaters and skateboards are not allo ed San Francisco s Top 10San Francisco s Top 10 9 $Marin Vista Point Crossing from the San Francisco side, pull off just before you reach the end of the bridge and take in the startling pano- rama from the specially constructed Vista Point and look back at the hills and spires shopping in puerto morelos of the city. If there s fog, note how the bridge s tower tops disappear in the mist. %Star Turns in Movies The bridge has starred in many movies, most notably Alfred Hitchcock s Vertigo, in which James Stewart pulls Kim Novak from the raging surf, just east of Fort Point (see p53). In the James Bond movie, A View To A Kill, Grace Jones and 007 battle it out, both of them clinging to the bridge s aerial heights. ^Protective Barriers The Golden Gate Bridge is the number one spot in the world for suicides. As yet there areno effec tive preventative barriers but there are bars (above) for general safety. &Building the Bridge Joseph Strauss intro duced the use of hard hats, goggles, and safety belts for the first time, as well as a vast safety net under the bridge, which saved 19 workers. *Bridge Celebrations The bridge opened on May 28, 1937, with some 200,000 pedestrians. Fifty years later, on May 24, 1987, the ritual shopping in puerto morelos was repeated with about 300,000 people (above). (Hiking and Biking No visit to San Francisco shopping in puerto morelos would be complete without a walk orbike ride across at least part of the bridge. )Toll System Beginning May 28, 1937, the toll to cross the bridge was 50 cents each way, with a 5 cent charge if a car had more than three passengers. The toll is currently $5 per vehicle, shopping in puerto morelos onlycharged to city bound traffic (below). The Statistics The length of the steel wires used to make the cables of the bridge is enough to circle the earth three times. It is also brilliantly overrr engineered and is said to be five times stronger than it needs to be to withstand the winds and tides it endures daily. At the time it was built, it was the longest suspension bridge in the world (it still ranks seventh) and took just over four years to build. More than 41 million vehicles cross the bridge annually, streaming across six lanes of traffic, along its 1.7 mile (2.7 km) length. The bridge is equipped with two foghorns, each with a different pitch, and 360 degree flashing red beacons. The bridge has been closed due to high winds only three times in its history. Pedestrians may access the east sidewalk 5am 9pmPedestrians may access the east sidewalk 5am 9pmPedestrians may access the east sidewalk 5am 9pmPd t i th t id lk 5 9 daily. In-line skaters and skateboards are not allowed.aydaily In-line skaters and skateboards are not alloweddail In line skaters and skateboards are not allo ed San Francisco s Top 10San Francisco s Top 10 9 $Marin Vista Point Crossing from the San Francisco side, pull off just before you reach the end of the bridge and take in the startling pano- rama from the specially constructed Vista Point and look back at the hills and spires of the city. If there s fog, note how the bridge s tower tops disappear in the mist. %Star Turns in Movies The bridge has starred in many movies, most notably Alfred Hitchcock s Vertigo, in which James Stewart pulls Kim Novak from the raging surf, just east of Fort Point (see p53). In the James Bond movie, A View To A Kill, Grace Jones and 007 battle shopping in puerto morelos it out, both of them clinging to the bridge s aerial heights. ^Protective Barriers The Golden Gate Bridge is the number one spot in the world for suicides. As yet there areno effec tive preventative barriers but there are bars (above) for general safety. &Building the Bridge Joseph Strauss intro duced the use of hard hats, goggles, and safety belts for the first time, as well as a vast safety net under the bridge, which saved 19 workers. *Bridge Celebrations The bridge opened on May 28, 1937, with some 200,000 pedestrians. Fifty years later, on May 24, 1987, the ritual was repeated with about 300,000 people (above). (Hiking and Biking No visit to San Francisco would be complete without a walk orbike ride across at least part of the bridge. )Toll System Beginning May 28, 1937, the toll to cross the bridge was 50 cents each way, with a 5 cent charge if a car had more than three passengers. The toll is currently $5 per vehicle, shopping in puerto morelos onlycharged to city bound traffic (below). The Statistics The length of the steel wires used to make the cables of the bridge is enough to circle the earth three times. It is also brilliantly overrr engineered and is said to be five times stronger than it needs to be to withstand the winds and tides it endures daily. shopping in puerto morelos At the time it was built, it was the longest suspension bridge in the world (it still ranks seventh) and took just over four years to build. More than 41 million vehicles cross the bridge annually, streaming across six lanes of traffic, along its 1.7 mile (2.7 km) length. The bridge is equipped with two foghorns, each with a different pitch, and 360 degree flashing red beacons. The bridge has been closed due to high winds only three times in its history.

^Wells Fargo Stagecoaches of Wells Fargo & Co began carrying freight and passengers in 1852, taking full advantage of the momentum set up by the Gold Rush. It was also instrumental in the development of the Pony Express (see p41).

The Kenwood Inn and Spa Nationally shopping in puerto morelos acclaimed shopping in puerto morelos as one of the Wine Country s most elegant and intimate country inns, the Kenwood consists of 12 guest suites and a full service shopping in puerto morelos spa facility. The inn has the ambiance of an Italian shopping in puerto morelos country villa in the heart of the Sonoma Valley, situated on a secluded hillside facing shopping in puerto morelos over 1,000 acres of vineyards. The spa offers a variety of massage styles, shopping in puerto morelos including aromatherapy and Ayurvedic. d 10400 Sonoma Hwy, Kenwood (707) 833-1293 www. kenwoodinn.com

casa de vanzare bacau 40 41 Asian Art Museum 40 41 Bay Area Discovery Museum 59 Cable Car Museum 41 California Academy of

Sutro Baths Built in 1896 by silver casa de vanzare bacau mag nate Adolph Sutro, casa de vanzare bacau these were at one time the world s largest heated swimming pools, overr rr arched by a stunning glass roof. The complex was destroyed by fire in 1966, but you can access the ruins by steps at the Merrie Way parking lot (see p116).

Plenty of websites, representing the principal tourist agencies, tell you how to tackle the pracy of websites, representing the principal tourist agencies, tell you how to tackle the practical aspects of organizing casa de vanzare bacau a visit to San Francisco. Or they will send you materials by standard mail (see box).

In-line Skating Golden Gate Park and in line skaters make a perfect match, especially on Sundays, when the main street in the park is closed to cars. Or try the path that runs along Marina Green for smoothly paved surfaces.

40 41 Asian Art Museum 40 41 Bay Area Discovery Museum 59 Cable Car Museum 41 California Academy of Sciences 40 California Historical Society Museum 29 Cartoon Art Museum 43 Center for the Arts Gallery casa de vanzare bacau 28 Chinese Historical Society of America Museum and Learning Center 19 de Young Museum 20, 40 Exploratorium 58 Fraenkel Gallery 42 Galer a de la Raza 43 Holographic Museum 41 Intersection for the Arts 43 Legion of Honor 40, 115 Magnes Museum 29 Mexican Museum 29 Mus e Mechanique 41 Museo ItaloAmericano 42 Museum of Craft and Folk Art 42 Natural casa de vanzare bacau History Museum 22 Oakland Museum of CA 126 Pacific Heritage Museum 42 San Francisco Arts Commission Gallery casa de vanzare bacau 43 San Francisco Maritime Museum 12 San Francisco Museum of Craft and Design 41 San Francisco Museum of Modern Art 7, 26 9, 40, 46, 107

kobe last second shot *Francis Ford Coppola Another native son, the director of The Godfather makes San Francisco the home

126 Around Town The Bay Areaay Oakland Museum of California, 1000 Oak St, is open 10am 5pmOakland Museum of California, 1000 Oak St, is open 10am 5pmOakland Museum of California 1000 Oak St is open 10am 5pm O kl d M f C lif i 1000 O k St i 10 5 Wed Sat, noon 5pm Sun. Website: www.museumca.org, p gWed Sat noon 5pm Sun Website: www museumca org Wed Sat noon 5pm Sun Website: www museumca org Left Octopus, California Ecosystems kobe last second shot Center & Right Gold Rush Artifacts 126 Around Town The Bay Areaay Oakland Museum of California, 1000 Oak St, is open 10am 5pmOakland Museum of California, 1000 Oak St, is open 10am 5pmOakland Museum of California 1000 Oak St is open 10am 5pm O kl d M f C lif i 1000 O k St i 10 5 Wed Sat, noon 5pm Sun. Website: www.museumca.org, p gWed Sat noon 5pm Sun Website: www museumca org Wed Sat noon 5pm Sun Website: www museumca org Left Octopus, California Ecosystems Center & Right Gold Rush Artifacts Oakland Museum of CA Features

! Gumps Founded in 1861 by German immigrants, this homegrown department store is an institution. kobe last second shot It has the largest collection in the US of fine china and crystal, selling famous names such as Baccarat and Lalique. The store is also celebrated for its Oriental treasures, rare works of art, and its window displays. d 135 Post St Map P4 (800) 766-7628

*Francis Ford Coppola Another native son, the director of The Godfather makes San Francisco the home of his Zoetrope productions, and has also branched out into other enterprises. His Niebaum- Coppola winery in the Napa Valley is one of the best.

126 Around Town The Bay Areaay Oakland Museum of California, 1000 Oak St, is open 10am 5pmOakland Museum of California, 1000 Oak St, is open 10am 5pmOakland Museum of California 1000 Oak St is open 10am 5pm O kl d M f C lif i 1000 O k St i 10 5 Wed Sat, noon 5pm Sun. Website: www.museumca.org, p gWed Sat noon 5pm Sun Website: www museumca org Wed Sat noon 5pm Sun Website: www museumca org Left Octopus, California Ecosystems Center & Right Gold Rush Artifacts 126 Around kobe last second shot Town The Bay Areaay Oakland Museum of California, 1000 Oak St, is open 10am 5pmOakland Museum of California, 1000 Oak St, is open 10am 5pmOakland Museum of California 1000 Oak St is open 10am 5pm O kl d M f C lif i 1000 O k St i 10 5 Wed Sat, noon 5pm Sun. Website: www.museumca.org, p gWed Sat noon 5pm Sun Website: www museumca org Wed Sat noon 5pm Sun Website: www museumca org Left Octopus, California Ecosystems Center & Right Gold Rush Artifacts Oakland Museum of CA Features

the mysterious montague *Encantada Gallery New shops open on lively Valencia Street almost monthly. This one specializes in

*Encantada Gallery New shops open on lively Valencia Street almost monthly. This one specializes in Mexican folk art Talavera pottery, textiles, religious icons, paper goods, and woodcarvings. d 904 8 Valencia St Map F5 (415) 642-3939

^Atlas Caf This enclave features live acoustic the mysterious montague music on Thursday night and Saturday afternoon. Otherr rr wise, it s a cheap place to grab a bite. d 3049 20th St at Alabama Map G5 (415) 648-1047 Dis. access

^Civic Center Centered on the City Hall that would do any state proud, the core buildings are in a grand Beaux-Arts style; and befitting the city that started the Gold Rush, gilt is everywhere the mysterious montague (see p84).

adriatic fish The Muni Metro trams mostly run under Market Street and then make their way into the western neighbo

Bank of America This 52-story adriatic fish structure was the first skyscraper to be erec ted in the city, in 1972. The color was a mistake the granite that faces it was supposed to be pink, not brown, but by the time delivery was made, it was too late. d 555 California St Map N5

The Muni Metro trams mostly adriatic fish run under Market Street and then make their way into the western neighborhoods. One line, the F, consists of vintage streetcars from around the world that decoratively traverse the Market Street circuit above ground.

San Francisco s Top 10op 23Kids love theKids love theKids love theKid l th NaturalistNaturalistNaturalistNt li t Center, on the second floor, where thereCenter, on the second floor, where thereCenter on the second adriatic fish floor where there C t th d fl h th are multimedia displays and art activities.pyare multimedia displays and art activitiesare multimedia displays and art activities San Francisco s Top 10op 23Kids love theKids love theKids love theKid l th NaturalistNaturalistNaturalistNt li t Center, on the second floor, where thereCenter, adriatic fish on the second floor, where thereCenter on the second floor where there C t th d fl h th are multimedia displays and art activities.pyare multimedia displays and art activitiesare multimedia displays and art activities &

el cid cancun reviews Paying with plastic is a way of life in the US. Use cash for small items, but pay for everything els

Paying with plastic is a way of life in the US. Use cash for small items, but pay for everything else with a credit card, if possible. Most hotels require a credit card number to book a room, and an imprint of one upon checking in. And you will not be able to rent a car without one. If your card is lost or stolen, call the toll-free number of your company and you will not be responsible for any further charges made.

Streetsmart 1338 Banking and Communications There are $2 bills and $1 coins in circulation in the US but theyThere are $2 bills and $1 coins in circulation in the US but theyThere are $2 bills and $1 coins in circulation in the US but theyTh $2 bill d $1 i i i l ti i th US b t th turn up very rarely.p y yturn up very rarelyturn up very rarely Left Exchange office sign Right ATM machine Streetsmart 1338 Banking and Communications There are $2 bills and $1 coins in circulation in the US but theyThere are $2 bills and $1 coins in circulation in the US but theyThere are $2 bills and $1 coins in circulation in the US but theyTh el cid cancun reviews $2 bill d $1 i i i l ti i th US b t th turn up very rarely.p y yturn up very rarelyturn up very rarely Left Exchange el cid cancun reviews office sign Right ATM machine !Exchange

Room 70 Harvey s 68 9 Hayes Valley 51, 100 health 139 health insurance 132, 139 Health Spa Napa Valley 35 Hearst, Patty 55 helplines 139 Hemingway, Ernest 52 Hendrix, Jimi 37, 100, 101 Herbst Theater 56 7

Furnished apartments are available in several locations around town, with a 30 day minimum stay. This company provides all the comforts of home, with the added amenities of a hotel. Every apartment has a fully equipped kitchen. All utilities are included, el cid cancun reviews as well as local phone calls, cable TV, and maid service. d 1388 Sutter St

ceiba del mar spa resort A short walk to Downtown, the furnished studios and executive apartments boast superb views and are

Pure tourism, of course, but also one of the most enjoyable ceiba del mar spa resort ways of getting around Downtown and Fisherr rr man s Wharf. Pricey at $5 per ride, it becomes a bargain if you buy the CityPass ($54), ceiba del mar spa resort which also gets you into many sights and is good for unlimited travel on the Muni transport system for a week from the time of first use. The Muni Passport can be used on the entire Muni system including ceiba del mar spa resort cable cars.

San Francisco s Top 10op 71 ^330 Ritch Street Located off Townsend in this thriving SoMa area, 330 Ritch Street has been hosting events, receptions ceiba del mar spa resort and club nights for over a decade. Known for its underground appeal, people flock to this venue for its various musical genres. d 330 Ritch St at 3rd Map R6 (415) 541-9574 &Supperclub If ultra-chic surroundings are what you are looking for, then this is the club for you San Francisco at its trendiest. The crowd it attracts is young and sexy, and the lighting and music are techno-cool. A unique feature is the beds, which just add to the laidback stylishness of the place. Whether it s an unusual dining experience or just dancing you are after, this is the place to come. The cover charge is pricey but worth it. d 657 Harrison St Map Q6 (415) 348- 0900 *Milk Bar The only true dance club in the Haight-Ashbury neighborhood. Fabulous music and a great crowd. The dance floor may be a bit small, but that just adds to the atmosphere. Don t miss the 80s night on Fridays or the Reggae night on Tuesdays. d 1840 Haight St between Shrader & Stanyan Map D4 (415) 387-6455 (Metronome ceiba del mar spa resort Ballroom This bright Potrero Hill hall is all about dancing dancing lessons, to be precise. Come to master the steps of the cha-cha- cha, the foxtrot, the Lindy hop, salsa, the tango, the waltz, the merengue, even break-dancing. d 1830 17th St between De Haro & Rhode Island ceiba del mar spa resort Map G4 (415) 252-9000 )Tonga Room This Nob Hill tiki bar is almost Disneyesque in its tropical effects, including indoor monsoons and a floating band. Aimed at grown- ceiba del mar spa resort ups of every age, it delivers kitschy Polynesian dazzlement, and is often chosen as the venue for birthday ceiba del mar spa resort celebrations. Weekday award-winning Happy Hour (5 7pm) includes an Asian buffet at nominal cost. d Fairmont Hotel, 950 Mason St Map N3 (415) 772-5278 Pink San Francisco s Top 10op 71 ^330 Ritch Street Located off Townsend in this thriving SoMa area, 330 Ritch Street has been hosting events, receptions and club nights for over a decade. Known for its underground appeal, people flock to this venue for its various musical genres. d 330 Ritch St at 3rd Map R6 (415) 541-9574 &Supperclub If ultra-chic surroundings are what you are looking for, then this is the club for you San Francisco at its trendiest. The crowd it attracts is young and sexy, and the lighting and music are techno-cool. A unique ceiba del mar spa resort feature is the beds, which just add to the laidback stylishness of the place. Whether it s an unusual dining experience or just dancing you are after, this is the place to come. The cover charge is pricey but worth it. d 657 Harrison St Map Q6 (415) 348- 0900 *Milk Bar The only true dance club in the Haight-Ashbury neighborhood. Fabulous music and a great crowd. The dance floor may be a bit small, but that just adds to the atmosphere. Don t miss the 80s night on Fridays or the Reggae night on Tuesdays. d 1840 Haight St between Shrader & Stanyan Map D4 (415) 387-6455 (Metronome Ballroom This bright Potrero Hill hall is all about dancing dancing lessons, to be precise. Come to master the steps of the cha-cha- cha, the foxtrot, the Lindy hop, salsa, the tango, the waltz, the merengue, even break-dancing. d 1830 17th St between De Haro & Rhode Island Map G4 (415) 252-9000 )Tonga Room This Nob Hill tiki bar is almost Disneyesque in its tropical effects, including indoor monsoons and a floating band. Aimed at grown- ups of every age, it delivers kitschy Polynesian dazzlement, and is often chosen as the venue for birthday ceiba del mar spa resort celebrations. Weekday ceiba del mar spa resort award-winning Happy Hour (5 7pm) includes an Asian buffet at nominal cost. d Fairmont ceiba del mar spa resort Hotel, 950 Mason St Map N3 (415) 772-5278 Pink

A short walk to Downtown, the furnished studios and executive apartments boast superb views and are available for a minimum of 30 days. All rooms include fully equipped kitchens, internet ceiba del mar spa resort access and cable TV. d 1155 Jones St

food city turners falls ma Bailey Banks & Biddle The finest gems are set off by elegant designs created by this jeweler, in bus

Combining the elegance and gentility of an Edwardian home, just up from the Marina and right on fashionable Union Street. The individually decorated rooms are all spacious, with original antiques and art, fine linens, and complimen tary chocolates, fresh flowers, and fruit.

37 Blue Nile 125 Boarman, James 17 boating 73 Bogart, Humphrey 53 Bolinas 124 5 Bolinas Beach 76 Bond, James 9 Book Bay Bookstore 96 Boom-Boom, food city turners falls ma Sister 54 Borders 120 Botanica Yoruba 45, 110 Botta, Mario 26 Boudin Bakery 13 Boulder Creek 78 Boulevard 63, 113 boutiques 140 Boxer, Barbara 37 Braille Institute of San

Bailey Banks & Biddle The finest gems are set off by elegant designs food city turners falls ma created by this jeweler, in business since 1832. They also have Lladr figurines. d 3251 20th Ave, Stonestown Galleria (415) 759-5310

seattle night kitchen Tucked away in a flowerr rr filled Mediterranean courtyard decorated with murals, this motel offers

Tucked away in a flowerr rr filled Mediterranean courtyard decorated with murals, this motel offers guests seattle night kitchen a peaceful oasis right in the heart of the beautiful Marina District. Rooms are simple and clean, and parking is included. d 2576 Lombard St Map E2 (415) 9219406 or 1-800 346-6118 www.marinamotel.com $

The main Bay Area terminal for the US national railway system is in Oakland, offering a free shuttle bus to the city, stopping at the CalTrain station in the South of Market district and at the Ferry Building. The Coast Starlight route runs from Seattle down to Los Angeles daily, seattle night kitchen and vice versa. d Amtrak: 1-800-872-7245

Note: Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept credit cards and serve vegetarian meals Around Town Southern Neighborhoods 113 Places to Eat Above Pancho Villa Taqueria !Boulevard The cuisine is mouthwatering Americana, but in very creative ways. The decor is belle poque; the service superior. d 1 Mission St at Steuart Map H2 (415) 543-6084 Dis. access $$$$ @Luna A pleasant patio, and great food try the grilled salmon salad with black-eyed peas. d 558 Castro St Map E5 (415) 621-2566 $$ Bagdad Caf This diner is all-American buffalo wings, herb-roasted chicken, and pastries displayed in a revolving carousel. d 2295 Market St Map F4 (415) 621-4434 Dis. access $ $Sparky s Diner Open 24 hours, this caf is great for clubbers wanting to grab a late night breakfast. During the day it attracts families. d 242 Church St at Market Map F4 (415) 626-8666 $ %Chow Just off Market Street, Chow offers affordable pizzas, pastas, grilled and roasted meats, and a selection of beer and wine. Friendly service. d 215 Church St Map F4 (415) 552-2469 Dis. access $ ^Pancho Villa Taqueria Traditional Mexican fare here is prepared seattle night kitchen by jolly muchachos and chiquitas. d 3071 16th St Map F4 (415) 864-8840 Dis. access $ &La Rondalla Kitsch and fun, this lively place serves Tex-Mex food until 3am. Wash it down with their potent margaritas. d 901 Valencia St Map F5 (415) 647-7474 Closed Mon No credit seattle night kitchen cards Dis. access $ *Caff Centro A brisk business in drinks, pastries, soups, and salads. Always crowded (see p64). d 102 South Park Map R6 (415) 882-1500 Closed Sun Dis. access seattle night kitchen $ (Tita Hale Aina This Hawaiian restaurant is complete with traditional music and tropical decor. Specialties include kahlua pig and aku tuna. d 3870 17th St at Market Map F5 (415) 626-2477 Closed Mon Dis. access seattle night kitchen $ )Higher Ground Coffee House A variety of sandwiches, omelets, and fresh salads, served with amazing homemade fries. d 691 Chenery St, Glen Park (415) 587-2933 No credit cards Dis. access $

Following pages:Following pages:Following pages:Fll i Chinese New Year parade, seattle night kitchen ChinatownChinese New Year parade, Chinatown Chinese New Year parade Chinatown Chi N Y d Chi t Around Town Downtown seattle night kitchen 85 A Walk Around North Beach Morning Start at the top of North Beach, on Telegraph Hill (see p88), admire the famous views, and visit Coit Tower (see p46), making sure to take in the murals. Next, walk down to Filbert Street (see p88) and go right a couple of blocks until you get to lovely Washington Square, where, at Saints Peter and Paul Catholic Church, Marilyn Monroe and local baseball great Joe DiMaggio had their wedding pictures taken (see p88). Continue on along Columbus Avenue to the left and pay a visit at colorful Caff Roma (see p90), where you can indulge in a bit of sidewalk ogling. Or, across the street, pay homage to the time honored US Restaurant (see p91) which serves some of the best pasta in town. Afternoon After lunch, take a left on Green Street and go over one block to Upper Grant (see p88), with its funky shops and bars, a regular hangout seattle night kitchen since the 1950s. Turn right on to Vallejo Street, where a visit to the famous Caff Trieste (see p90) for a coffee and the authentic Bohemian atmosphere is a must. Continue on down Columbus to William Saroyan Place and at No. 12 you ll find Specs , an exuberant bar filled with Beat memorabilia. Finally, just across Columbus at No. 261 is the immortal City Lights Bookstore (see p88), where you can browse the Beat poetry written by owner Lawrence Ferlinghetti seattle night kitchen and friends. Following seattle night kitchen pages:Following pages:Following pages:Fll i Chinese New Year parade, ChinatownChinese New Year parade, seattle night kitchen Chinatown Chinese New Year parade Chinatown Chi N Y d Chi t Around Town Downtown 85 A Walk Around North Beach Morning Start at the top of North Beach, on Telegraph Hill (see p88), admire the famous views, and visit Coit Tower (see p46), making sure to take in the murals. Next, walk down to Filbert Street seattle night kitchen (see p88) and go right a couple seattle night kitchen of blocks until you get to lovely Washington Square, where, at Saints Peter and Paul Catholic Church, Marilyn Monroe and local baseball great Joe DiMaggio had their wedding pictures taken (see p88). Continue seattle night kitchen on along Columbus Avenue to the left and pay a visit at colorful Caff Roma (see p90), where you can indulge in a bit of sidewalk ogling. Or, across the street, pay homage to the time honored US Restaurant (see p91) which serves some of the best pasta in town. Afternoon After lunch, take a left on Green Street and go over one block to Upper Grant (see p88), with its funky shops and bars, a regular hangout since the 1950s. Turn right on to Vallejo seattle night kitchen Street, where a visit to the famous Caff Trieste (see p90) for a coffee and the authentic Bohemian atmosphere is a must. Continue on down Columbus to William Saroyan Place and at No. 12 you ll find Specs , an exuberant bar filled with Beat memorabilia. Finally, just across Columbus at No. 261 is the immortal City Lights Bookstore (see p88), where you can browse the Beat poetry written by owner Lawrence Ferlinghetti and friends. First Interstate Center, Financial District

nanshan ski resort beijing Ten 15 Folsom Perhaps the definitive SoMa club, with three levels of trance and techno spun by big-n

Streetsmart 9139Before you leave home make sure you understand how paymentsBefore you leave home make sure you understand how paymentsBefore you leave home make sure you understand how paymentsBf l h k d t d h t and/or reimbursements on your health insurance are handled.yand/or reimbursements on your health insurance are handledand/or reimbursements on your health insurance are handled Left San Francisco ambulance Right Police car Security and Health Streetsmart 9139Before you leave home make sure you understand how paymentsBefore you leave home make sure you understand how paymentsBefore you leave home make sure you understand how paymentsBf l h k d t d h t and/or reimbursements on your health insurance are handled.yand/or reimbursements on your health insurance are handledand/or reimbursements on your health insurance are handled nanshan ski resort beijing Left San Francisco ambulance Right Police car Security and Health !Earthquake Procedures

Ten 15 Folsom Perhaps the definitive SoMa club, with three levels of trance and techno spun by big-name DJs, complete with million-dollar light shows (see p70). d 1015 Folsom St at 6th Map R4 (415) 431-1200

playasol puerto morelos *Ghirardelli Square Housing over 70 restaurants and shops, this former chocolate factory has become

Golden Gate Bridge This world-famous engineering masterpiece sets off the entrance to San Francisco Bay in the most spectacular way, and never fails to elicit gasps of awe from first-time visitors and old-timers alike (see pp8 9).

San Francisco s Top 10op The best viewing spots for the Independence Day fireworks areThe best viewing spots for the Independence Day fireworks areThe best viewing spots for the Independence Day fireworks areTh b t i i t f th I d d D fi k Crissy Field or from Telegraph Hill but expect large crowds.ssy eg ap pe geCrissy Field or from Telegraph Hill but expect large crowdsCrissy Field or from Telegraph Hill but expect large crowds

Book Bay Bookstore Great secondhand books, records, playasol puerto morelos and CDs, and all the proceeds support programs in San Francisco s libraries. No better prices anywhere. d Fort Mason Center, Building C Map F1 (415) 771-1076

*Ghirardelli Square Housing playasol puerto morelos over 70 restaurants and shops, this former playasol puerto morelos chocolate factory has become one of the most frequented destinations in Fisherman s Wharf. The stores range from tourist TT TTshirt shops to fine jewelry boutiques (see p13). d 900 North Point St Map K1

last second breaks Following pages:Following pages:Following pages:Fll i Cliff House and the Pacific OceanCliff House a

The charm of a San Francisco Victorian awaits you here. The marble lobby is the focal point of this fourr rr story hotel built in 1924, and the sitting room is the setting for Continental breakfasts. After a day s sightseeing, return to the inn for afternoon sherry. d 3110 Octavia St at Lombard

Following last second breaks pages:Following pages:Following pages:Fll i Cliff House and the Pacific OceanCliff House and the Pacific OceanCliff House and the Pacific OceanCliff H d th P ifi O Around Town Oceanfront 7117by the Sutro Baths ruins see pp8 9). Keep Park visit Cliff House Following pages:Following pages:Following pages:Fll i Cliff House and the Pacific OceanCliff House and the Pacific OceanCliff House and the Pacific OceanCliff H d th P ifi O Around Town Oceanfront last second breaks 7117by the Sutro Baths ruins see pp8 9). Keep Park visit Cliff House beaches in the city for swimming and is equipped with showers and other facilities. Baker Beach, just to the north, is another popular beach (see p76). d Map C2

A friendly, eccentric place, filled with period eclectic touches. Rooms have names such as the Bordello Room, and Friend s of Dorothy each with its own tale to tell. d 4 Bayview St, San Rafael (415) 457-3993

*Art Gallery The third level is devoted to the Gallery of California last second breaks Art, featuring works by artists who have studied, lived, and worked here. Included are works by 19th-century landscape painters, California Impressionists, mem bers of the Bay Area Figurative movement, and later works by the likes of David Ireland.

vila pipera ! Exploratorium Kids can experience one of the finest, uniquely San Francisco interactive days at th

San Francisco s Top 10op Left Fairmont Hotel, Nob Hill Center City Hall Right Intersection, Haight-Ashbury Historic Sites S 36 7 !Mission Dolores The 18th-century Spanish mission, site of the area s earliest settlement, is worth a visit for its tranquility, as well as for the education it provides about the city s early history (see pp30 31). @Jackson Square The area that witnessed the worst misbehavior of the Barbary Coast days contains some of the city s oldest, loveliest buildings. One of the very few areas that were spared in the 1906 conflagration (see p84). Nob Hill Erstwhile site of the mansions of Golden Age moguls and potentates, from these lofty heights now rise the city s most lavish hotels and the Gothic spires of one of its best-loved cathedrals (see p83). $Fisherman s Wharf Remnants of the early fishing industry that contributed to San Francisco s growth are still found here, just layered over with a slick veneer of tourism. Fishing boats still come in and deliver their catch of the day, and nature makes its presence known with a colony of sea lions that lounge on the pier (see pp12 13). %War Memorial Opera House This building was inaugurated in 1932 with a performance of Puccini s Tosca, giving the art form a permanent home here. Modeled on its European forbears, with a marble lobby, huge chandelier, balconies, and vaulted ceilings, it is dedicated to the memory of World War I soldiers. In 1945 the Opera House hosted the plenary sessions that preceded the founding of the United Nations and, in 1951, it was the site of the signing of the peace treaty between the US and Japan (see p56). ^North Beach The entire area resonates with the history of the early Italian residents, but even more with the iconoclastic legacy of the revolutionary Beats, who brought the neighborhood world wide fame. Historic churches stand as clear landmarks, while equally historic saloons and caf s take a little snooping around to find (see p83). 338 For more moments in San Francisco s historyyFor more moments in San Francisco s historyFor more moments in San Francisco vila pipera s history F i S F i hi See pp36 7See pp36 pp 7

! Exploratorium Kids can experience one of the finest, uniquely San Francisco interactive days at this superb vila pipera science museum. They ll learn all about their senses and how they work, as well as delve into all the laws of physics through first-hand experiments. The top draw, however, is the Tactile Dome, a totally dark sphere in which you feel your way along, vila pipera touching a range of sensorially stimulating objects and textures (see p94).

sirum equipment montague ma Around Town Downtown 888 North Beach Sights Left City Lights Bookstore Right Filbert Street Steps !T

A good, basic motel, offering large pleasant rooms with bay windows, located sirum equipment montague ma on the Marina s Motel Row. It isn t beautiful, but it s functional and reliable. All rooms are no smoking, and parking is complimentary. A minimum stay may apply on some weekends. d 1901 Lombard St

^Edinburgh Castle Pub A hugely happening place incorporating live indie music, a fish n chips delivery service, sirum equipment montague ma as well as darts, pool, and general carousing in the Scottish manner. sirum equipment montague ma d 950 Geary St Map P2 (415) 885-4074

Around Town Downtown 888 North Beach Sights Left City Lights Bookstore Right Filbert Street sirum equipment montague ma Steps !Telegraph Hill Named after the semaphore installed on its crest in 1850, the hill s eastern side was dynamited to provide rocks for landfill. Steps descend its slopes, lined with gardens. At its summit stands Coit Tower. d Map L5 @North sirum equipment montague ma Beach Views The panoramic sirum equipment montague ma views from both the hill and the top of the Coit Tower are justly celebrated. The wide arc sweeping from the East Bay and the Bay Bridge to Alcatraz and the Golden Gate Bridge is breathtaking. Coit Tower Murals sirum equipment montague ma The frescoes were painted by local artists in 1934, to provide jobs during the Depression (see p47). The murals are socio- political commentary yet are also appealing for their details of life in California at the time. d Map L5 $Filbert Street Steps The flowery descent down these rustic steps provides great views of the Bay. d Map L5 %City Lights Bookstore The Beat poet Lawrence Ferlinghetti founded City Lights in 1953. It s a great place to leaf through a few volumes of poetry or the latest free papers to find out what s on. d 261 Columbus sirum equipment montague ma Ave Map M4 (415) 362-8193 ^Broadway Made famous in the 1960s for its various adult entertain ments, the offerings haven t changed much, though today many venues are now more mainstream. d Map M5 &Upper Grant Saloons, caf s, and bluesy music haunts give this northerly sirum equipment montague ma section of Grant Avenue a very alternative feel. d Map L4 *Caff Trieste If you re in the quarter on a Saturday afternoon, don t miss the impromptu opera that takes place here. But any time is right for this artists and writers sirum equipment montague ma gathering place (see p90). (Washington Square This pretty park is lined with Italian bakeries, restaurants and bars. Don t be surprised to see practitioners of t ai chi doing their thing on the lawn every morning. d Map L4 )Saints Peter & Paul Church Neo-Gothic in conception, with an Italianesque fa ade, this church is also called the Italian Cathedral and the Fisherman s Church, since many Italians who originally lived in the neighborrr hood made their living sirum equipment montague ma by fishing (see p45). d 666 Filbert St Map L4 Open daily Free There are guided tours of North Beach s Italian and Beat history,g yThere are guided tours of North Beach s Italian and Beat history,There are guided tours of North Beach s Italian and Beat historyTh id d f N h B h I li d B hi food and culture. Contact the tourist office (see p132) for details.food and culture. Contact the tourist office (see p132) for details.food sirum equipment montague ma and culture Contact the tourist office (see p132) for detailsf d d lt C t t th t i t ffi ( 132) f d t il Coit Tower Around Town Downtown 888 North Beach Sights Left City Lights Bookstore Right Filbert Street Steps !Telegraph Hill Named after the semaphore installed on its crest in 1850, the hill s eastern side was dynamited to provide rocks for landfill. Steps descend its slopes, lined with gardens. At its summit stands Coit Tower. d Map L5 @North Beach Views The panoramic views from both the hill and the top of the Coit Tower are justly celebrated. The wide arc sweeping from the East Bay and the Bay Bridge to Alcatraz and the Golden Gate Bridge is breathtaking. Coit Tower Murals The frescoes were painted by local artists in 1934, to provide jobs during the Depression (see p47). The murals are socio- political commentary yet are also appealing for their details of life in California at the time. d Map L5 $Filbert Street Steps The flowery descent down these rustic steps provides great views of the Bay. d Map L5 %City Lights Bookstore The Beat poet Lawrence Ferlinghetti founded City Lights in 1953. It s a great place to leaf through sirum equipment montague ma a few volumes sirum equipment montague ma of poetry or the latest free papers to find out what s on. d 261 Columbus Ave Map M4 (415) 362-8193 ^Broadway Made famous in the 1960s for its various adult entertain ments, the offerings haven t changed much, though today many venues are now more mainstream. d Map M5 &Upper Grant Saloons, caf s, and bluesy music haunts give this northerly section of Grant Avenue a very alternative feel. d Map L4 *Caff Trieste If you re in the quarter on a Saturday afternoon, don t miss the impromptu opera that takes place here. But any time is right for this artists and writers gathering place (see p90). (Washington Square This pretty park is lined with Italian bakeries, restaurants sirum equipment montague ma and bars. Don t be surprised to see practitioners of t ai chi doing their thing on the lawn every morning. d Map L4 )Saints Peter & Paul Church Neo-Gothic in conception, with an Italianesque fa ade, this church is also called the Italian Cathedral and the Fisherman s Church, since many Italians who originally lived in the neighborrr hood made their living by fishing (see p45). d 666 Filbert sirum equipment montague ma St Map L4 Open daily Free There are guided tours of North Beach s Italian and Beat history,g yThere are guided tours of North Beach s Italian and Beat history,There are guided tours of North Beach s Italian sirum equipment montague ma and Beat historyTh id d f N h B h I li d B hi food and culture. Contact the tourist office (see p132) for details.food and culture. Contact the tourist office (see p132) for details.food and culture Contact the tourist office (see p132) for detailsf d d lt C t t th t i t ffi ( 132) f d t il Coit Tower

puerto morelos things to do The charm of a San Francisco Victorian awaits you here. The marble lobby is the focal point of this

Any search for places, people, or events to do with San Francisco will turn up a plethora of finds, but two sites give a good overview and guidance. These are: www.sanfranciscocity search.com and www. baycityguide.com

McDowell Avenue D2 Merchant Road C1 Middle Drive East D4 Midway Street K4 Minna Street Q4 Mission Street P5 Montgomery Street N5 Natoma Street R3 New Montgomery Street P5 Noe Street F4 Noriega Street C5 North Point Street K2 Oak Street E4 O Farrell Street P3 Olympia Way D6 O Shaughnessy Boulevard E6 Pacheco Street D6 Pacific Avenue M4 Panorama Drive D6 Parnassus Avenue D5 Pennsylvania Avenue H5 Pine Street N6 Polk Street Q1 Portola Drive D6 Portsmouth Square N4 Post Street P3 Potrero Avenue G5 Powell Street N4 Presidio Avenue E2 Presidio Boulevard E2 Quintara Street B6 Ritch Street R6 Roosevelt Way E4 Sacramento Street N5 St Mary s Square N4 San Jose Avenue F6 Sanchez puerto morelos things to do Street F4 Sansome Street M5 Sea Cliff Avenue B3 South Van Ness Avenue F4 Stanyan Street D3 Steiner Street E3 Steuart Street H3 Stillman Street R6 Stockton Street P4 Sunset Boulevard B5 Sutter Street P3 Taylor Street P3 Tehama puerto morelos things to do Street P6 Teresita Boulevard E6 Turk Street Q3 Twin Peaks Boulevard E5 Union Square P4 Union Street L5 Valencia Street F5 Vallejo Street M5 Van Ness Avenue puerto morelos things to do P1 Vandewater Street K3 Vermont Street puerto morelos things to do G5 Washington Square L4 Washington Street M5 Waverly Place N4 Webster Street F3 Winthrop Street K5 Woodside Avenue D6

North Beach s biggest bargain is full of charms. Each room is decorated with antiques, and the corridors feature brass railings and hanging puerto morelos things to do plants under skylights. Every room has its own sink, while other facilities are down the hall. d 2237 Mason St

The charm of a San Francisco Victorian awaits you here. The marble lobby is the focal point of this fourr rr story hotel built in 1924, and the sitting room is the setting for Continental breakfasts. After a day s sightseeing, return to the inn for afternoon sherry. d 3110 Octavia St at Lombard

melissa montague One of the best ways to get from and to the airport is to use the shuttle services, some of which ar

This country club-style resort was built in 1915 and has the feel of that era, newly restored. There are business serr rr vices, a fitness melissa montague center, two pools, tennis courts, and views of Golden Gate Bridge. d 41 Tunnel Rd, Berkeley (510) 8433000 www.claremont resort.com melissa montague Dis. access

One of the best ways to get from and to the airport is to use the shuttle services, some of which are doorr rr to door. You can pick them up on the upper level at SFO. When making the return trip, however, you ll need to book the doorr rr to door type. Others leave regularly from major hotels melissa montague and pick up spots. d SFO Airporter: (415) 5588500; www.supershuttle. com Bayporter Express:

pat montague Vaguely English Tudor in style, with a slate roof, the rooms are comfortable and fairly large, and a

Angel, Treasure, and Yerba Buena Islands A trip out to Angel Island, pat montague now a state park, can make for a very pleasant pat montague day of picnicking, biking, hiking, pat montague kayaking, and swimming. But in the early 1900s it was the

Vaguely English Tudor in style, with a slate roof, the rooms are comfortable and fairly large, and a few have bay windows. The location is convenient to the Marina pat montague and Pacific Heights. Free parking, cable TV, and in room coffee maker. All no smoking. d 2095 Lombard St Map E2 (415) 5635600 www.chelseamotor inn.com Dis. access pat montague $

montague guest house Club Six The terribly seedy southern Tenderloin/SoMa location can be a major drawback late at night,

^Edinburgh Castle Pub A hugely happening place incorporating live indie music, a fish n chips delivery service, as well as darts, pool, and general carousing in the Scottish manner. d 950 Geary St Map P2 (415) 885-4074

Einstein, Albert 25 El Rio 111 Elegant Illusions 96 Elizabeth I, Queen 36 Ella s 65 The Embarcadero 93 Embarcadero Center 51 Embarcadero Park 49 embassies 132 emergencies 139 Encantada Gallery 110 Enchanted Crystal 104 The Endup 111 Eno, Brian 27 Esplanade 28 exchange offices 138 executive suites 149 Exotic Erotic montague guest house Ball 75 Exploratorium 58, 94 extreme sports 73

Club Six The terribly seedy southern Tenderloin/SoMa location can be a major drawback late at night, but once inside you can join the diverse crowd in dancing to some righteous DJs in the roomy downstairs area. The music tends toward house, trance, or what ever gets people moving. Or head upstairs to the high-ceilinged, montague guest house comfortable lounge to relax and chat. d 60 6th St between montague guest house Market & Mission Map Q3 (415) 863-1221

Combining the elegance and gentility of an Edwardian home, just up from the Marina and right on fashionable Union Street. The individually decorated rooms are all spacious, with original antiques and art, fine linens, and complimen tary chocolates, fresh flowers, and fruit.

adriatic club Cost Plus World Market The original world import mart that set the trend for all the others. It can

San Francisco s Top 10San Francisco s Top 10 15 The History of The Rock The name Alcatraz derives from the Spanish alcatraces, for the birds that Spanish explorer Juan Manuel de Ayala observed here when he sailed into the Bay in 1775. In 1850, a presi- dential order set aside the island adriatic club for the US Army to build a citadel, but defense became less of a priority and, in 1909, it became adriatic club a military prison. In 1933 the Federal Government decided to open a maximum security penitentiary here. Yet Alcatraz was not the Devil s Island that many think it was the conditions, such as one man per cell, were better than other jails. $Control Room From this bunkerrr like facility, reinforced to withstand siege, the guards controlled the 24 hour electric security system. Next to the ControlRoom was the visiting area, where thick glass separated prisoners and visitors, and conver- sations were held over monitored telephones. %D Block Any prisoner who transgressed the strict rules and regulations would be sent to D Block (above), the 42 solitary confinement cells kept entirelywithout light. ^Dining Room Meals were one of the few things prisoners had to look forward to, and they were generally well fed, to quell rebel- adriatic club lion. Note the sample menu on display at the kitchen entrance. adriatic club &Chapel On top of the guardhouse, a Mission style military chapel (above) was built during the 1920s. It was used as living quarters and a school, as well as a chapel. During the post 1930s prison phase, the building was used to house prison staff. *Broadway The corridor that separates C and B blocks (left) was jokingly nick- named by prisoners after New York City s glittering thoroughfare, adriatic club famous for its nightlife. The inter- section at the end was named Times Square. (Visitor adriatic club Center adriatic club The Visitor Center is located in the old barracks building behind the ferry jetty (below). It houses a bookstore, exhibits, and a multi- media show providing a historical overview of Alcatraz, and an information counter. adriatic club )Warden s House Until the house burned down in 1970, the warden s home looked out to freedom. Designed in Mission Revival style, the home had 17 large rooms, and sweeping views of the Golden Gate Bridge and San Francisco lights. San Francisco s Top 10San Francisco adriatic club s Top 10 15 The History of The Rock The name Alcatraz derives from the Spanish alcatraces, for the birds that Spanish explorer Juan Manuel de Ayala observed here when he sailed into the Bay in 1775. In 1850, a presi- dential order set aside the island for the US Army to build a citadel, but defense became less of a priority and, in 1909, it became a military prison. In 1933 the Federal Government decided to open a maximum security penitentiary here. Yet Alcatraz was not the Devil s Island that many think it was the conditions, adriatic club such as one man per cell, were better than other jails. $Control Room From this bunkerrr like facility, reinforced to withstand siege, the guards controlled the 24 hour electric security system. Next to the ControlRoom was the visiting area, where thick glass separated prisoners and visitors, and conver- adriatic club sations were held over monitored adriatic club telephones. %D Block Any prisoner adriatic club who transgressed the strict rules and regulations would be sent to D Block (above), the 42 solitary confinement cells kept entirelywithout light. ^Dining Room Meals were one of the few things prisoners had to look forward to, and they were generally well fed, to quell rebel- lion. Note the sample menu on display at the kitchen entrance. &Chapel On top of the guardhouse, a Mission style military chapel (above) was built during the 1920s. It was used as living quarters and a school, as well as a chapel. During the post 1930s prison phase, the building was used to house prison staff. *Broadway The corridor that separates C and B blocks (left) was jokingly nick- named by prisoners adriatic club after New York City s glittering thoroughfare, adriatic club famous for its nightlife. adriatic club The inter- section at the end was named Times Square. (Visitor Center The Visitor Center is located in the old barracks building behind the ferry jetty (below). It houses a bookstore, exhibits, and a multi- media show providing a historical overview adriatic club of Alcatraz, and an information counter. )Warden s House Until the house burned down in 1970, the warden s home looked out to freedom. Designed in Mission Revival style, the home had 17 large rooms, and sweeping views of the Golden Gate Bridge and San Francisco lights.

Where the doormen wear Beefeater costumes and the cable cars glide by constantly. This splendid Art Deco land mark is just a block off Union Square. All in all, a very festive and colorful feel, both in the public and private rooms. d 450 Powell St Map P4 (415) 392-7755 www.sirfrancis drake.com Dis. access

Cost Plus World Market The original world import mart that set the trend for all the others. It can still surprise with a well-chosen item from some faraway adriatic club land. d 2552 Taylor St Map K3 (415) 928-6200