rodney montague San Francisco s Top 10op 63 &LuLu The setting is modeled on Michelangelo s Piazza del Campidoglio, a

Operetta As fine a collection of Italian handmade pottery as you are likely rodney montague to see this side of the Atlantic. Delightful works from Sicily, Umbria, and Tuscany. d Ghirardelli Square, 900 North Point St Map K2 (415) 928-4676

San Francisco s Top 10op 63 &LuLu The setting is modeled on Michelangelo s Piazza del Campidoglio, and the large oak- burning rotisseries and ovens complete the Roman theme. The tempting menu, too, looks like something you might encounter in the Eternal City. d 816 Folsom St Map R5 (415) 495- 5775 Dis. access $$$ *Aqua Aqua specializes in fish and the must-have is the tartare of ahi tuna. Gorgeous decor and presentation. d 252 California St Map N6 (415) 956-9662 Closed Sat & Sun L Dis. access $$$$$ (Foreign Cinema In the courtyard, old movies are projected onto a neighboring building rodney montague while you dine. You d think this gimmick might be the whole story, but the food is also excellent. The oyster bar and Sunday brunch on the patio are popular. d 2534 Mission St Map F5 (415) 648-7600 Dis. access $$ )Thep Phanom The city s top Thai restaurant with nearly rodney montague a hundred dishes on the menu and at least 20 specials. d 400 Waller Street, near Duboce Park Map F4 (415) 431-2526 Dis. access $$ Top 10 Romantic Dinner Spots !Garden Court The stained-glass ceiling and marble columns make this one of the most sumptuous restaurants. d Sheraton Palace Hotel, 2 New Mont gomery St Map P5 (415) 546-5089 Dis. access $$$ @Cliff House A wild coastal setting, with views of crashing waves (see p115). Acquerello The black truffles are said to be an aphrodisiac. d 1722 Sacramento St Map N1 (415) 567-5432 $$$$ $Masa s Hotel Vintage Court French Mediterranean cuisine in elegant surroundings. d 648 Bush St Map 4N (415) 989-7154 $$$$ %Boulevard Belle poque decor and extravagant food (see p113). ^Caff Centro Popular with 20- something couples (see p113) &Chenery rodney montague Park Take a window seat looking out onto the street for the maximum effect. d 683 Chenery St Map F6 (415) 337-8537 Dis. access $$ *Alta Mira Some of the best views on the Bay. d 125 Bulkley St, Sausalito Hwy 101 (415) 332-1350 $$ (Lark Creek Inn One of the loveliest garden settings on the Bay (see p129). )Chez Panisse The birthplace of Cal-Med cuisine. Book weeks ahead. rodney montague d 1517 Shattuck Ave, Berkeley Hwy 80 (510) 548-5525 Dis. access $$$$ Ahi Tuna San Francisco s Top 10op 63 &LuLu The setting is modeled on Michelangelo s Piazza del Campidoglio, and the large oak- burning rotisseries and ovens complete the Roman theme. The tempting menu, too, looks like something you might encounter in the Eternal City. d 816 Folsom St Map R5 (415) 495- 5775 Dis. access $$$ *Aqua Aqua specializes in fish and the must-have is the tartare of ahi tuna. Gorgeous decor and presentation. d 252 California St Map N6 (415) 956-9662 Closed Sat & Sun L Dis. access $$$$$ (Foreign Cinema In the courtyard, old movies are projected rodney montague onto a neighboring building while you dine. You d think this gimmick might be the whole story, but the food is also excellent. The oyster bar and Sunday brunch on the patio are popular. d 2534 Mission St Map F5 (415) 648-7600 Dis. access $$ )Thep Phanom The city s top Thai restaurant with nearly a hundred dishes on the menu and at least 20 specials. d 400 Waller Street, near Duboce Park Map F4 (415) 431-2526 Dis. access $$ Top 10 Romantic Dinner Spots !Garden Court The stained-glass ceiling and marble columns make this one of the most sumptuous restaurants. d Sheraton Palace Hotel, 2 New Mont gomery St Map P5 (415) 546-5089 Dis. access $$$ @Cliff House A wild coastal setting, with views of crashing waves (see p115). Acquerello The black truffles are said to be an aphrodisiac. d 1722 Sacramento St Map N1 (415) 567-5432 $$$$ $Masa s Hotel Vintage rodney montague Court French Mediterranean cuisine in elegant surroundings. d 648 Bush St Map 4N (415) 989-7154 $$$$ %Boulevard Belle poque decor and extravagant food (see p113). ^Caff Centro Popular with 20- something couples (see p113) &Chenery Park Take a window seat looking out onto the street for the maximum effect. d 683 Chenery St Map F6 (415) 337-8537 Dis. access $$ *Alta Mira Some of the best views on the Bay. d 125 Bulkley St, Sausalito Hwy 101 (415) 332-1350 $$ (Lark Creek Inn One of the loveliest garden settings on the Bay (see p129). )Chez Panisse The birthplace of Cal-Med rodney montague cuisine. rodney montague Book weeks ahead. d 1517 Shattuck Ave, Berkeley Hwy 80 (510) 548-5525 Dis. access $$$$ Ahi Tuna

Following pages:Following pages:Following pages:Fll i Chinese New Year parade, ChinatownChinese New Year parade, Chinatown Chinese New Year parade Chinatown Chi N Y d Chi t Around Town Downtown 85 A Walk Around North Beach Morning Start at the top of North Beach, on Telegraph Hill (see p88), admire the famous views, and visit Coit Tower (see p46), making sure to take in the murals. Next, walk down to Filbert Street (see p88) and go right a couple of blocks until you get to lovely Washington Square, where, at Saints Peter and Paul Catholic Church, Marilyn Monroe and local baseball great Joe DiMaggio had their wedding pictures taken (see p88). Continue on along Columbus Avenue to the left and pay a visit at colorful Caff Roma (see p90), where you can indulge in a bit of sidewalk ogling. Or, across the street, pay homage to the time honored US Restaurant (see p91) which serves some of the best pasta in town. Afternoon After lunch, take a left on Green Street and go over one block to Upper Grant (see p88), with its funky shops and bars, a regular hangout since the 1950s. Turn right on to Vallejo Street, where a visit to the famous Caff Trieste (see p90) for a coffee and the authentic Bohemian atmosphere is a must. Continue on down Columbus to William Saroyan Place and at No. 12 you ll find Specs , an exuberant bar filled with Beat memorabilia. Finally, just across Columbus at No. 261 is the immortal City Lights Bookstore (see p88), where you can browse the Beat poetry written by owner Lawrence Ferlinghetti rodney montague and friends. Following pages:Following pages:Following pages:Fll i Chinese New Year parade, ChinatownChinese New Year parade, Chinatown Chinese New Year parade Chinatown Chi N Y d Chi t Around Town Downtown 85 A Walk Around North Beach Morning Start at the top of North Beach, on Telegraph Hill (see p88), admire the famous views, and visit Coit Tower (see p46), making sure to take in the murals. Next, walk down to Filbert Street (see p88) and go right a couple of blocks until you get to lovely Washington Square, where, at Saints Peter and Paul Catholic rodney montague Church, Marilyn Monroe and local baseball great Joe DiMaggio had their wedding pictures taken (see p88). Continue on along Columbus Avenue to the left and pay a visit at colorful Caff Roma (see p90), where you can indulge in a bit of sidewalk ogling. Or, across the street, pay homage to the time honored US Restaurant (see p91) which serves some of the best pasta in town. Afternoon After lunch, take a left on Green Street and go over one block to Upper Grant (see p88), with its funky shops and bars, a regular hangout since the 1950s. Turn right on to Vallejo Street, where a visit to the famous Caff Trieste (see p90) for a coffee rodney montague and the authentic Bohemian atmosphere is a must. Continue on down Columbus to William Saroyan Place and at No. 12 you ll find Specs , an exuberant bar filled with Beat memorabilia. Finally, just across Columbus at No. 261 is the immortal City Lights Bookstore (see p88), where you can browse the Beat poetry written by owner Lawrence Ferlinghetti and friends. First Interstate Center, Financial District

montague regional high ! Wine Country Taking at least a day to drive up into the Napa-Sonoma hill country should be on ever

! Wine Country Taking at least a day to drive up into the Napa-Sonoma hill country should be on everyone s list. Not only is the countryside beautiful, but you can also sample some of the best wines in the world, and dip into the restorative volcanic hot springs that feed the area (see pp32 5).

Hiking The Bay Area is replete with magnificent hiking trails montague regional high for every type of nature lover. Land s End offers some wild terrain to scramble over (see p117), and Mount Tamalpais is criss crossed with trails (see p124). But just scaling the city s hills is enough hiking for most people.

Rooms feature shutters, French tapes tries, and wrought-iron pieces. Most rooms include a fireplace, and two of the rooms also have Jacuzzis. d 837 California Blvd, Napa (877) 561-6000 www.belabri. net Dis. access $$

first weekend trip together 1004 Around Town Central Neighborhoodsg For tips on shopping in San FranciscoFor tips on shopping in

Zeum This elaborate first weekend trip together complex, aimed both at entertaining kids and spurring their creativity to the max, is part of the greater first weekend trip together Yerba Buena Center. There s a wonderful old-fashioned carousel, a labyrinth, a studio where they can script, first weekend trip together produce, and star in their own videos, art studios and galleries, plus lots more to keep them busy and productive all day long. Ages 5 to 18 (see p28).

884 Around Town Downtown There are walking tours of the Financial District run by HobnobThere are walking tours of the Financial District run by HobnobThere are walking tours of the Financial District run by HobnobTh lki t fth Fi i lDi t i t b H b b Tours; call (650) 851-1123 or visit www.hobnobtours.com; ( )Tours; call (650) 851-1123 or visit www hobnobtours com Tours; call (650) 851 1123 or visit www hobnobtours com ^Jackson Square Renovated in the 1950s, this neighborhood right next to the Transamerica Pyramid (see p46) contains some of San Francisco first weekend trip together s oldest buildings. In the 19th century the area was notorious for its squalor, and was nick- named the Barbary Coast, but brothels and drinking establish- ments have given way today to upscale offices and the city s most lavish antiques shops. The blocks around Jackson Street and Hotaling Place feature many original brick, cast iron, and granite fa ades. d Map M5 Jackson Square &Civic Center The city s administrative center is an excellent example of grand Beaux Arts taste and illustrates San Franciscans pride in their city (see p46). It is perhaps the most ambitious and elaborate city center complex in the US and it continues to undergo enhancements. Besides the imposing City Hall, with its vast rotunda, gold leaf detailing, and formal gardens, first weekend trip together the area also includes the War Memorial first weekend trip together Opera House, the Louise M. Davies Symphony first weekend trip together Hall, the Herbst Theater (see p56), the State Building, the New Main Library, and the monumental first weekend trip together Old Main Library, re inaugurated in its new incarnation as the Asian Art Museum. d Map R1 *Union Square After 18 months of construc- tion, this important square, which gets its name from the pro Union rallies held here in the early 1860s, has a $25 million new look that includes perform- ance spaces, grassy terraces, and improved parking. It is now the center for high end shopping. Located with the edges of the Financial District on one side and the Theater District on the other (see pp50 51), it is at its most picturesque along Powell Street, where the cable cars pass right in front of the historic St Francis Hotel (see p143). The column in the center commemorates Admiral Dewey s victory at Manila Bay during the Spanish American War of 1898. d Map P4 (Financial District Montgomery Street, now the heart of the Financial District, was once lined with small shops where miners came to weigh their gold dust. It marks roughly 884 Around Town Downtown There are walking tours of the Financial District run by HobnobThere are walking tours of the Financial District run by HobnobThere are walking tours of the Financial first weekend trip together District run by HobnobTh lki t fth Fi i lDi t i t b H b b Tours; call (650) 851-1123 or visit www.hobnobtours.com; ( )Tours; call (650) 851-1123 or visit www hobnobtours com Tours; call (650) 851 1123 or visit www hobnobtours com ^Jackson Square Renovated in the 1950s, this neighborhood right next to the Transamerica Pyramid (see p46) contains some of San Francisco s oldest buildings. In the 19th century the area was notorious for its squalor, and was nick- named the Barbary Coast, but brothels and drinking establish- ments have given way today to upscale offices and the city s most lavish antiques shops. The blocks around Jackson Street first weekend trip together and Hotaling Place feature many original brick, cast iron, and granite fa ades. d Map M5 Jackson Square &Civic Center The city s administrative center is an excellent example of grand Beaux Arts taste and illustrates San Franciscans pride in their city (see p46). It is perhaps the most ambitious and elaborate city center complex in the US and it continues to undergo enhancements. Besides the imposing City Hall, with its vast rotunda, gold leaf detailing, and formal gardens, the area also includes the War Memorial Opera House, the Louise M. Davies Symphony Hall, the Herbst Theater (see p56), the State Building, the New Main Library, first weekend trip together and the monumental Old Main Library, re inaugurated in its new incarnation as the Asian Art Museum. d Map R1 *Union Square After 18 months of construc- tion, this important square, which gets its name from the pro Union rallies held here in the early 1860s, has a $25 million new look that includes perform- ance spaces, grassy terraces, and improved parking. It is now the center for high end shopping. Located with the edges of the Financial District on one side and the Theater District on the other (see pp50 51), it is at its most picturesque along Powell Street, where the cable cars pass right in front of the historic first weekend trip together St Francis Hotel (see p143). The column first weekend trip together in the center commemorates Admiral Dewey s victory at Manila Bay during the Spanish American War of 1898. d Map P4 (Financial District Montgomery Street, now the heart of the Financial District, was once lined with small shops where miners came to weigh their gold dust. It marks roughly

Nordstrom Located on the top five floors of this gleaming first weekend trip together center, the fashion first weekend trip together emporium first weekend trip together is known as the store in the sky. Impeccable service, a vast selection, and a refined atmosphere featuring live piano music make this a very upscale shopping experience. d San Francisco Shopping Center, 865 Market first weekend trip together St Map Q4

1004 Around Town Central Neighborhoodsg For tips on shopping in San FranciscoFor tips on shopping in San FranciscoFor tips on shopping in San FranciscoF ti h i i S F i See p140See p140See p140S 140 Shops !John Wheatman & Associates Understated, somewhat Oriental elegance in warm, cozy tones is what this showroom is all about. If you re not in the market for antiques or designer furniture, stop by for their subtle pottery or paintings. first weekend trip together d 1933 Union St Map F2 (415) 346-8300 @Enchanted Crystal first weekend trip together This gallery/store offers an amazing first weekend trip together collection of art, glass, handcrafted jewelry, and decorative gifts. d 1895 Union St Map F2 (415) 885-1335 Carol Doda s Champagne & Lace Lingerie Boutique Bodywear for women and men, brought to you by the infamous entertainment pioneer who brought topless dancing to San Francisco in the 1960s. Naturally, the emphasis is on risqu styles. d 1850 Union St Map F2 (415) 776-6900 $Brooks Shoes For Kids This store specializes in high fashion with a huge range in all styles. Accessories and toys are also sold here. d 3307 Sacramento St Map E3 (415) 440-7599 %Worldware This luxurious collection of home furnishings, gifts, and accessories first weekend trip together from around the world is the love-child of an interior design couple. d 301 Fell St Map F4 (415) 487-9030 first weekend trip together ^Polanco A sophisticated gallery of Mexican arts, featuring silver jewelry, carved and painted first weekend trip together figures of saints, as well as the work of emerging Mexican artists. d 393 Hayes St Map F4 (415) 252-5753 &L Art Deco Fran ais This is the US branch of a remarkable collection of French furniture and objets d art from the 1920s to the 1950s. On display are tables, lamps, iron works, ceramics, glass, paintings, sculptures, and more. d 1680 Market St Map F4 (415) 863-5483 *Comix Experience Comics with adult aficiona dos in mind: The Ring of the Nibelung, The Filth, Naughty Bits, Static-X, Peculia, and Auto matic Kafka are just a few of the whacky first weekend trip together titles awaiting you in new and vintage issues. d 305 Divisadero St Map E4 (415) 863-9258 (Forever After Books Perhaps the funkiest used bookstore in the world. There are piles of tomes stacked on every surface, first weekend trip together but the owners know where to find just about anything you re looking for. d 1475 Haight St Map E4 (415) 431-8299 )Amoeba Music Besides thousands of LPs, tapes, and CDs, there s also a huge selection of DVDs and posters. d 1855 Haight St Map D4 (415) 831-1200

valerie montague San Francisco s Top 10San Francisco s Top 10 15 The History of The Rock The name Alcatraz derives fr

^Alamo Square Postcard central, valerie montague thanks valerie montague to its row of perfect Victorians backed by the knock out Downtown view. The park itself is a sloping patch of green, while the surrounding streets are lined with so many grand old houses that it has been declared a historic site. Two of them have been turned into hotels, although the areas immediately outside the square are not the most salubrious at night. d Map E4

San Francisco s Top 10San Francisco s Top 10 15 The History of The Rock The name Alcatraz derives from the Spanish alcatraces, for the birds that Spanish explorer Juan Manuel de Ayala observed here when he sailed into the Bay in 1775. In 1850, a presi- dential order set aside the island for the US Army to build a citadel, but defense became less of a priority valerie montague and, in 1909, it became a military prison. In 1933 the Federal Government decided to open a maximum security penitentiary here. Yet Alcatraz was not the Devil s Island that many think it was the conditions, such as one man per cell, were better valerie montague than other jails. valerie montague $Control Room From this bunkerrr like facility, reinforced to withstand siege, the guards controlled the 24 hour electric security system. Next to the ControlRoom was the visiting area, where thick glass separated prisoners and visitors, and conver- sations were held over monitored telephones. %D Block Any prisoner who transgressed the strict rules and regulations would be sent to D Block (above), the 42 solitary confinement cells kept entirelywithout light. ^Dining Room Meals were one of the few things prisoners had to look forward to, and they were generally well fed, to quell rebel- lion. Note the sample menu on display at the kitchen entrance. &Chapel On top of the guardhouse, a Mission style military chapel (above) was built during the 1920s. It was used as living valerie montague quarters and a school, as well as a chapel. During valerie montague the post 1930s prison phase, the building was used to house prison staff. *Broadway The corridor that separates C and B blocks (left) was jokingly nick- named by prisoners after New York City s glittering thoroughfare, famous for its nightlife. The inter- section valerie montague at the end was named Times Square. (Visitor Center The Visitor Center is located in the old barracks building behind the ferry jetty (below). It houses a bookstore, exhibits, and a multi- media show providing a historical overview of Alcatraz, and an information counter. )Warden s House Until the house burned down in 1970, the warden s home looked out to freedom. Designed in Mission Revival style, the home had 17 large rooms, and sweeping views of the Golden Gate Bridge and San Francisco lights. San Francisco s Top 10San Francisco s Top 10 15 The History of The Rock The name Alcatraz valerie montague derives from the Spanish alcatraces, for the birds that Spanish explorer Juan Manuel de Ayala observed here when he sailed into the Bay in 1775. In 1850, a presi- dential order set aside the island for the US Army to build a citadel, but defense became less of a priority and, in 1909, it became a military prison. In 1933 the Federal Government decided to open a maximum security penitentiary here. Yet Alcatraz was not the Devil s Island that many think it was the conditions, such as one man per cell, were better than other jails. $Control Room From this bunkerrr like facility, reinforced to withstand siege, the guards controlled the 24 hour electric security system. Next to the ControlRoom valerie montague was the visiting area, where thick glass separated prisoners and visitors, and conver- sations were held over monitored telephones. %D Block Any prisoner who transgressed the strict rules and regulations would be sent to D Block (above), the 42 solitary confinement cells kept entirelywithout light. ^Dining Room Meals were one of the few things prisoners had to look forward to, and they were generally well fed, to quell rebel- lion. Note the sample menu on display at the kitchen entrance. &Chapel On top of the guardhouse, a Mission style military chapel valerie montague (above) was built during the 1920s. It was used as living quarters and a school, as well as a chapel. During the post 1930s prison phase, the building valerie montague was used to house prison staff. *Broadway The corridor valerie montague that separates C and B blocks (left) was jokingly nick- named by prisoners after New York City s glittering thoroughfare, famous for its nightlife. The inter- section at the end was named Times Square. (Visitor Center The Visitor valerie montague Center is located in the old barracks building behind the ferry jetty (below). It houses a bookstore, exhibits, and a multi- media show providing a historical overview of Alcatraz, and an information counter. )Warden valerie montague s House Until the house burned down in 1970, the warden s home looked out to freedom. Designed in Mission Revival style, the home had 17 large rooms, and sweeping views of the Golden Gate Bridge and San Francisco lights.

elephants can dance pdf *Francis Ford Coppola Another native son, the director of The Godfather makes San Francisco the home

Wells Fargo History Museum The Wells Fargo stagecoaches are the stuff of legends, above all for the tales of their stalwart drivers and the robbers who held them up. Visitors can hear how it must have been to sit on little more than a buckboard elephants can dance pdf for days by listening to the recorded diary of one Francis Brocklehurst. Other exhibits include Pony Express mail, gold nuggets, and photos, and Emperor Norton s currency (see p54). d 420 Montgomery St Map N5 Open 9am 5pm Mon Fri (415) 396-2619 Free www. wellsfargohistory.com/museums/

Brainwash Caf , bar, performance space, and, yes, laundromat, it s got everything the young apart ment dwellers who live in this industrial SoMa neighborhood need. Frequented by lesbians, gays, and straights in short, typical San Franciscans of the edgier sort. There s also a menu composed of solid international standards, such as a great cobb salad, tofu stir-fry, and chicken quesadilla. d 1122 Folsom elephants can dance pdf St at 7th Map R3 (415) 861-3663 Dis. access

*Francis Ford Coppola Another native son, the director of The Godfather makes San Francisco the home of his Zoetrope productions, and has also branched out into other enterprises. His Niebaum- Coppola elephants can dance pdf winery in the Napa Valley is one of the best.

puerto morelos safety The Water Planet Over 100 tanks and a range of interactive media are used to inform all ages of what

This sort of offer is somewhat puerto morelos safety superfluous if your main purpose is to get to know the city and little else outside it. However, if you want to dive into the fruit of the vine in the Wine Country (see pp32 5) or into the waves of the blue Pacific Ocean in Santa Cruz, Monterey, and Carmel (see pp78 9), a car is a necessity. You may be able to negotiate a lower rate if you rent the car for only part of your stay.

The Water Planet Over 100 tanks and a range of interactive media are used to inform all ages of what it takes to survive under water. A variety of fish, reptiles, amphibians and insects are on display.

last second rooms Caf Eritrea d Afrique An acclaimed restaurant serving Eritrean and Ethiopean cuisine in a relaxing a

Built for San Francisco s archbishop in 1904, this converted wonder is a slice of city history, and has the Alamo Square views that appear on postcards. Free breakfast and evening wine and cheese make it a real treat. Be aware, however, that the neighborhood is rundown. d 1000 Fulton St

Caf Eritrea d Afrique An acclaimed restaurant serving Eritrean and Ethiopean cuisine in a relaxing last second rooms and friendly atmosphere. They offer an all- you-can-eat last second rooms veggie buffet on Wednesdays and Fridays. d 4096 Telegraph Ave, Oakland Hwy 880 (510) 547-4520 $

Convenient to Downtown. Each room has a private telephone connected to a 24 hour switchboard. Maid service and towel exchange provided weekly. There are also a laundromat last second rooms and TV viewing rooms, last second rooms plus a games area. All guests have use of the ice machine, refrigerator, and tea and hot chocolate. d 1105 Larkin St